Survival Wall

Survival Wall topo

The crag now reappears again after a large grassy ramp and some poor rock. This area through the Nemesis Wall is probably the most impressive bit of rock on the crag.

1. Charlain (HVS 5a, 5a)
Pleasant. Start at the left-hand side of the grey wall, 5m left of a slim white groove.

  1. 21m Climb the wall past a break, PR, and after a bulge trend rightwards, PR, until atop a large block. Step right before continue up to a small ledge and tree.
    1. 12m Move up and right to a tree then move left via a break and up via a crack.

2. Now and Then (E2 5b, 5a)
Slighty better climbing.

  1. 21m
    Fine climbing up the slim white groove leads past 2PRs to a small overlap. Pull over this, PR, to gain better holds leading to a tree belay.
  2. 12m
    Finish as for Charlain.

3. Dead Man’s Creek (E4 6a) ★
Getting better. Gain and climb the obvious flake in the wall to the right, BR, until moves slightly rightwards and up gain a PR. Continue direct past a jammed wire until a step left and easier moves up gain a Peg belay for lower-off.

4. Punch and Judy (E5 6b) ★★★
A true technical classic, probably more like 7a+. Start 8m right of Now and The. Gain a flake and cross the difficult bulge to gain a break. Stand up and traverse delicately right to reach a shallow groove which eases in difficult for the lower-off to be gained. Plenty of fixed gear.

5. Full Mental Jacket (E5 6c) ★
A hard eliminate based around Punch and Judy. Starting 5m further right, cross a flaky bulge onto a small ledge, then step left and up past BRs to reach a break. Stand up and move slightly left to follow a faint groove to reach goods holds. Move slightly left again, then straight up to the belay. Fixed gear.

6. Survival of the Fastest (E4 6a) ★★★
A true classic of the early eighties with sustained difficulties on a fine line. From the start of Full Mental Jacket, pull rightwards through the bulge to reach the crackline, PR. Climb this, gradually increasing in difficulty to a slight bulge, PRs. Cross this leftwards past a BR with a hard move, and move up to a break, PR. Finish via a slab and straightforward crackline.

7. Survival of the Fattest (E5 6b)
A hard crux section with easier climbing above and below. Starting 5m right of Survival of the Fastest, cross an awkward bulge to gain a series of small flakes leading to a bulge at 20m. Hard moves through this gain an overlap and a finishing crack to its left.

8. Friday the Thirteenth (E5 6a, 5c) ★★★

9. Manic Mechanic (E5 6b) ★★★