Trevor Rocks Quarry

Trevor Rocks map 1

Situation and Character

Trevor Rocks Quarry is the most southerly of the cliffs on the Eglwyseg escarpment and is quite a prominent landmark when travelling along the panoramic road. It is ideally situated for a short visit, morning as a warm-up to better things at such places as Dinbren or for an evening visit.

The climbs are centred around two walls. The west-facing wall is slabby in nature with a prominent crawl terrace: the routes here are characteristically bold on good slabby black limestone. The south-facing is vertical by contrast and offers routes of a sterner nature. Some in-situ gear is present here although the routes currently have no lower-offs and a defendant on stakes at the top of the cliff for belay.

Approach

There are two approaches from Llangollen. Take the road out of Llangollen by the taxidermist shop and follow this road (Dinbren Road) for 2 miles until a T junction is reached - the Dinbren crags lie above. Turn right and follow this single track road until after a long rise the quarry will be seen on the left-hand side of the road followed by a sharp left-hand bend and a good parking place.

Alternatively, follow the road out of Llangollen towards Ruabon until the Sun Trevor pub is reached on the left-hand side of the road. Turn here and follow this steep road past a sharp left bend to again reach a T junction. Turn right and the quarry will lie just above with the left-hand bend a little further on.

Layout

Trevor Rocks map 2