Character
One of the true esoteric gems of North Wales limestone when in it’s in condition, which isn’t very often, is this impressive gorge. There are two walls of complete contrast. The slabby northern wall gives a mixture of bold face routes amongst sections of vegetated rock whilst the impressive south wall gives a number of incredibly overhanging routes, several of which are true classics of the area.
Conditions
This wall is only in condition after a dry spell and needs cool, non-humid weather with a pleasant breeze to be in perfect condition. Cool air from the cave condenses on the walls that can make them wet in even the driest of dry spells if the difference in air temperature is too great.
Approach
From Mold, follow the A494 towards Ruthin. After just over a mile the road flattens out and passes the Rainbow Inn on the left. In a further half a mile, turn right and follow the road to Gwernaffield. Turn left and down into Pantymywn and park at a sharp right-hand bend just under a mile further on. From here continue straight down a short tarmacadum track and as the roads twists to the left cross a cattle grid and down to a left-hand bend in the track. The path continues straight on a passes the gorge on its left-hand side.
