Devil’s Gorge topo
1. Ladywriter (HS)
takes the dirty groove below the footbridge finishing leftwards via cracks.
2. Portabella Blues (HS)
tackles the overlaps above the groove of Ladywriter and then the slab directly below above to finish just left of the bridge.
3. A Brown Shade of Lime (VS 4c)
move up the leftwards trending crackline before exiting right and then straight up the slab.
4. Single-handed Sailor (HVS 4c)
begins 7m further right and climbs the slab direct past two bushes.
5. Follow me Home (E1 5a) ★
start in the centre of the slab and climb it between two bushes to reach a bar - mine’s a pint. Follow the overlap slightly leftwards to the top.
6. Angel of Mercy (E2 5a) ★
From the bar on Follow Me Home, step right and up and over the overhang to climb the slab, bold.
7. Grey Tripper (E2 5a)
from 3m right again, climb up to a tree and continue up the slab above to an overhang. Step right and over this and climb the slab above just left of a faint rib.
8. News (HVS 4c)
climbs the slab and broken ramp o and the clean slab above.
9. Where we Going (HS)
the awful corner bounding the slab.
10. Cave Wall (6c+)
exits rightwards from Where we Going to climb the situ wall past a mixture of situ gear, most of it BRs.
11. Echoes (7a)
Unfortunately dirty. Well worth doing when clean. Climb the lower wall from just left of a small cave until difficult moves gain the large half-height cave.
Underworld (7c) ★★
start L of Echos and climb the smooth crimpy wall to a lower off at half height.
Hades (8a+) ★★★
is the extention to Underworld.
The Bear (8b) ★★
from the final roof on Hades go diagonally rightwards to the belay of Grand Canyon
Paradiso (8b) ★★★
extends The Bear by finishing up Canyonlands.
Born Slippy (7c+) ★★★
climb Underworld to the sixth bolt then break out R to Grand Canyon and finish up that.
Cerberus (7c+) ★★
Follow Grand Canyon then break out left into Hades at the overhang and finish up that.
12. Grand Canyon (7b+) ★★★
a true classic of the area taking the centre of the finest section of wall in the quarry. The climbing is varied ranging from fingery low down to all out stamina moves high up. Awaits a finish.
The Mark of Zorro (7b) ★★
follows Underworld to the third bolt then move R into Grand Canyon then R again up into Brocolli and Ice Cream.
Canyonlands (8a) ★★★
is the extention to Grand Canyon.
13. Broccoli and Ice-cream (7b) ★
another fine route, well glued back together which unfortunately suffers from the dreaded dirt. The start is dirty and the crux section short but complex.
14. An Ivory Smile (7c) ★
needs recleaning and regearing. An impressive route straight up the centre of the wall. Significantly harder than Canyon.
15. The Ten Year Fog (7b+) ★
needs recleaning and regearing. The next line to the right again gives some very hard climbing.
Ten Year Banana (7b+)
links The Ten Year Fog into Bananas and Coffee.
16. Bananas and Coffee (7a) ★
was superb when first done but has fallen into disrepair. A relatively easy leftwards start gains a glacis. The rightwards line above gives a difficult crux finale which is increased by the next to last clip!
Fairtrade (7c) ★
follow B&C to the fifth bolt then break out R onto the smooth wall. Rejoin B&C just below it’s belay.
17. What’s in a Word (7a+) ★
another fine route when clean that breaks rightwards from the glacis on Bananas and Coffee to almost finish on the bridge.
18. Uhu (6b+)
climbs the broken wall above a ramp to finish under the bridge’s right-hand side.
19. Communiqué (E4 5c)
follows the ramp line out of Uhu to finish via a steep, broken crackline.
La Porte de l’Enfer (7b+)
climbs directly to the belay of the next route with a boulder problem start and dynamic finish.
20. Comfortably Numb (7a)
a desperately fingery route at the entrance to the gorge.