Nomad Wall

Nomad Wall topo

The superb slim wall set at a higher level gives a trio of the best routes in the quarry. All give fantastic wall climbing with a limited amount of fixed gear. Take a full trad rack including a couple of medium sized Friends and a broad selection of wires.

NO ROUTES TO BE RETROBOLTED

To reach the wall, climb the lower arête on its right-hand side before transferring onto a ledge below the main section of wall.

1. Rabble Rouser (6b+)
The right-hand side of the wall, using the arête in many places, gives a fine introduction to the wall. The main difficulties lie in the first 10m.

2. This Won’t Hurt (7a) ★★★
The easiest route of the three climbs the wall 5m left of the right-hand arête. Tricky moves low down but the route as a whole provides a fine sustained effort. Now bolted.

3. Unbroken (7a) ★★★
An impressive pitch tackling the centre of the smoothest section of the wall and saves its hardest section to the final 10m. Fingery and superb.

4. Nomad (7a+) ★★★
The magnificent central line of the wall gives a memorable pitch. Totally direct and absorbing with the crux in the final 8m. Now bolted

5. The Screaming Skull (7b) ★★★
The left-hand line of the wall now climbed with a direct start and bolted. One very short hard section with an ’energetic’ finale. Brilliant Now bolted

Nomad Lower

Nomad lower topo

6. Dentine (5+)
Right-hand side of lower wall.

7. Pull ’em Out (6a)
Next route in.

8. Root Treatment (6c)
The central line with the best moves on the wall. Tough finale.

9. Another Filling (6b+)
The Left-hand line.

The large expanse of wall to the left of this sports one enormous sport route Southern Mountains 6a The route is 50m in length with two lower-offs and requiring 17 quickdraws.