The Gallery Right-Hand
10. Criminals of Want (6b+) ★
starts just right of a slab and roof and aims for a small left-facing corner, bolt. Finish directly above.
The upper left half of the crag is now split by a very obvious left-facing corner and slab.
11. The View Belongs to Everyone (6b) ★★★
start up the slabs to gain the base of the corner directly. Up the slab, may appear wet due to rock sheen on the right wall, moving left and back right to gain a chimney, up which the route finishes. 60m rope essential.
12. This Land is Your Land (6c) ★★★
start 2m right of 11. Climb directly up to the arête which leads to a large ledge. Finish through the notch in the roof above. It is worth noting that the last bolt before the bulge is on the left side of the arête and that the bolt above the roof is on the main fin and is hidden from below. 60m rope essential.
13. Free the Forwen (6c+) ★★
start 2m right of This land is Your Land. Climb directly to a ledge, then up and slightly left to a bolt. Continue through bulges to gain the upper left-leaning groove. Finish up the weakness to the right of the jutting overhang.
To the right the crag becomes less featured and provides some very sustained climbing. It is defined on its right by a rising fault capped by a steep headwall.
14. You Can do Magic (7a+) ★★★
start just left of a small tree at 4m and at 100 painted on the road. Continue very directly all the way to the lower-off.
15. Put a Spell on You (7a) ★★★
start just right of a small tree. Pass a large protruding block at 8m on its right-hand side. Trend slightly leftwards and climb a shallow left-facing corner, moving right to a lower-off below the roof. Again, superbly sustained.
16. Truly, Madly, Steeply (7a) ★★★
start directly opposite the lamp post. Gain a niche at 10m (just to the right of a tree). Move up and left to climb the bulging headwall directly.
17. Finnegan’s Wake (7a+) ★★★
climbs to a central depression then up a steep groove to a hands-off rest. The move past the last BR on the right is difficult. Hard to read.
The final routes on the crag climb up to the rising fault and then tackle the headwall above.
18. Project (7a+/7b)
19. The Evil that Men Do (7b) ★★★
start below the prominent corner above the rising fault. Climb up to an overlap, through this to a difficult series of moves rightwards over a bulge. Undercut moves lead left to a finale up the overhanging corner.
20. Rock Savage (7b+) ★★★
start at a white circle painted around a rusty old bracket. Climb up to a de reeur hands-off knee jam below a bulge. Hard lay away moves lead to the flat hold on the left. Move up past the BR to small holds on the ramp, then move right to good holds and strenuously back left to finishing layback moves. Brilliant.
21. Ourselves Alone (7a+) ★★
climb up to jams and an old PR at the rising fault. Hard and strenuous step ups lead to overhanging finishing moves
22. Unknown (7b+?)
the old BRs and single lower off up the blank-looking wall. Soon to be re-equipped and climbed.
23. Cure for a Sick Mind E2 5b
From the first bolt on Stagger Lee, continue traversing rightwards to finish in the Corner of the View. Run out in places.
Upper Crag
Iskra (6b+) ★★
The left-hand line is on brilliant rock higher up. Reach the first bolt from the start of Maximum R&B. A 60m rope is essential.
Maximum R&B (7a, 6a+) ★★
- Totally brilliant! Start at a pinnacle below the shallow groove. Climb the increasingly airy groove to some roofs which are passed with excitement. Move right to a thin crack below the belay
- Climb up above the belay, then move left and back right to finish. 60m rope essential or double ropes if you want to rap in one from the top.