Long Wall
& Railway Buttress
Railway Buttress
This is the wall left of the main part of Long Wall with a sleeper sticking out of its top on the right side and the obvious tree at its base.
1. Express Decision (5)
The left arête.
2. Virgin Crack VS 4c
The crack.
3. Ariva (5+)
Short but good
4. Timetable Failure (5)
Slightly easier to the right.
5. Sleeping Sickness (6b)
Slim groove and short wall on left.
6. My Bed’s Downstairs (6b) ★
The pleasant face left of centre.
7. Braking Bad (6b+) ★
The the overlap on the left side and up the arête. Good.
8. Insomnia (6b) ★
Climbs up the wall to the right of the hanging corner.
9.Sleep On It (6b) ★
Slim wall on the right with a tricky start and central section and new belay.
10. Just the Ticket (VS 4b)
This is the obvious crack.
11. Was it? (5)
NEW arête on the right.
Moabi (6a)
NEW Not on the topo but climbs a line a little further right.
Long Wall Left
1. Regulo Mark 6 (6b+) ★
The finale route with tricky moves about both the first and second ledges.
2. Easy on the Gas (6a) ★
Easier to the left with on awkward move at the top.
3. The Pillar Talk (6a+) ★
A fine wall taken direct on the line of bolts. Tricky finale direct.
4. The Pillar Walk (5+)
The pillar crack via a two-thirds height ledge.
5. Have we Addit (6a+)
Pleasant with a crux at half height
6. Addit and Scarper (6b) ★
The cracks just to the left lead to a technical headwall.
7. You’ve Addit (6a+) ★
From just left of the addit cave, twin thin cracks and an easier headwall.
8. Addit enough (5+)
Begins just right of the addit cave. Easy at first with one tricky move at the top.
8a. Longchamps (6a) ★
9. Addit Pillar (6a+)
The thin pillar face on the walls to the left after a dusty start.
Long Wall Right
10. Novicok Stone (6a+)
The short wall heading for the wide crack above.
11. The Long Goodbye (6a)
The shallow groove, crack and arête.
12. Flexor Hallucis Longus (6b) ★
The arête to the left finishing via a final bulge.
13. Long Walk off a Short Pier (6a) ★
Starts via the prominent block and trends leftwards to a finial difficult flourish on the headwall.
14. Tooooo Long (5+) ★
Good face climbing starting via the crack right of the block.
15. Longevity (6a) ★
The blank-looking face to the left gives a myriad of holds and a tough pull over the overlap at the start.
16. Knight of the Long Knives (6b)
Pleasant technical face.
17. Long Time No See (6a) ★
Startup a short, left leaning crack and step right onto the face. Pleasant slabby face climbing above.
18. The Long Walk (6b) ★
A difficult pull onto the blank looking wall leads to pleasant face climbing above. Maintains interest all the way to the top.
19. So Long, Farewell (6a)
Slightly harder direct and starting just right of a crack.
No Farewell (5)
Direct line to awkward move over bulge. Use belay on left.
20. Belonging (5+)
Pleasant face with good climbing.
21. A Dea (6a) ★
Pleasant face after the big flake start.
22. Doh (6b) ★
Short technical lower wall above ‘Homer block’ leads slightly leftwards to easier encrusted upper face.
Crustyless (5+)
Edge of flake to ledge and short wall. Pleasant.
23. Crustyland (6b)
New wall and bulge on the right. Pleasant.
24. Woo Hoo (5)
The slabby wall at the right-hand side of the cliff.
25. Tweety Pie (5)
Start as for the previous route and climb the wall to its right.
26. Have Another Cow (4)
Easy route on the right.