Chopper Area

1. Match of the Day E2 5c ★
A fingery pitch up the centre of the rounded buttress. Climb the wall moving slightly rightwards to gain a short flake. Climb this with difficulty, then continue more easily via a larger flake to the terrace.

2. Goal of the Month E2 5c ★
Another fingery pitch straight up the wall 3m to the right past two thread runners and a series of tricky moves.

3. The Chopper VS 5a ★
One of the original routes of the face. Climb the thin polished crack left of the prominent flake groove with a few hard moves to exit the crack proper. Step and climb the easier flake system to the girdle break.

4. Sleepwalkers HVS 5a
This route takes the flakey, left-facing groove immediately right of the Chopper directly to the break. Becoming vegetated.

5. Pleasant Dreams HVS 5b
From 5m up Sleepwalkers, move right above the lower overlap, PR, and up onto the face - tricky. Finish via the shallow groove above.

6. Rape E2 5b ★
A super little route on very compact rock. Move leftwards across the lower wall to reach a thin, slightly rightwards trending crack. Follow this via a tricky bulge to easier ground. This leads to the break.

7.Grapple and Grope E5 6a
Moves left from 5m up Gulle Gulle Groove to climb the bold wall and shallow groove above.

8. Gulle Gulle Groove VS 4c ★
Enjoyable climbing up the clean shallow groove to the right.

9. Flycatcher E1 5b ★
From 5m right again, climb the wall behind the prominent tree to reach a flake, then move slightly left and up to the base of a wall/nose. Now climb rightwards to finish via a crack to gain the rake.

10. Snap Dragon E5 6b ★
A tough little cookie, with difficult to place protection. An excellent test-piece. From the flake on Flycatcher, move and slightly left to a thread runner. Continue slightly left up the wall above with a series of ‘slaps’ to gain holds a long way above.

11. Leering Wall HVS 5b ★★
A fine little route. Climb up to the prominent overlap to the right and make a series of difficult moves rightwards through it to gain a standing position on a good hold. Finish more easily via the open scoop above.

12. Dagenham Dave E1 5b
Again worthwhile. Climb the wall 5m to the right, just left of an easier line of holds, and cross a slight bulge leftwards to a ledge. Step left again and climb a shallow groove to gain the girdle break.

13. Clive’s Route VS 4c
The easier line of holds just to the right finishing slightly rightwards via a scoop to reach trees.

14. Switch E2 6a
The wall just right past a faded thread runner.

15. Changeling E4 6a
A short difficult route to the right via a slight depression. The finish slightly to the right is vegetated.

16. Doggone Groove VS 4b
The obvious flaky groove at the right-hand side of the crag. Most used as access to the girdle.

17. What Aches E3 5c
Bold climbing via the vague rib 3m to the right of Doggone Groove.