Left-Hand Walls
1. Shake Hands with the Octopus (7c) ★★
The excellent wall L of White Gold is now fully bolted.
2. White Gold (7a) ★★
An old classic line now revamped with in-situ gear. The line, which can be done direct at a slightly harder grade, climbs a shallow groove exiting left and up to the upper break. Swinging right here gains the prominent finishing flake and groove.
3. Nobody’s hero (7a+) ★★
Climb the wall just R of White Gold until awkward moves lead R to a good flat hold. Climb direct to a bulge then move R to a small ledge. Difficult final moves lead to the belay.
My Hero (7b) ★★
The LH of two finishes to Nobody’s Hero.
Nobody’s Sunak (7b+) ★★
The RH direct finish.
Reachy Sunak (8a) ★
The desperate wall R of the start to Nobody’s Hero leads to the bulge. Tricky moves to finish.
Spanned Out Ballet (7c) ★★
The fierce wall R again leads directly to the finish of Nobody’s Hero.
4. The Myrmidon E5 6b ★★
A very technical effort, especially at the second crux which is particularly hard to flash. Climb the thin crack, TR by a tricky rockover to a respite at the break. Swing left, drilled PR, and up via a shallow scoop into the trees.
5. The Ogre (8a)★★
The red-flecked side wall gives a hard technical pitch on which the BRs don’t seem enough and for the short a bit of a long stretch. The climbing is always technical and fingery, takes a slightly leftwards line and is harder for the short.
6. Igor (7c) ★
The wall to the right proves quite ‘goey’.
7. Puppets E1 5b
A direct line right of the vague arête via a couple of old TRs leads steeply but on good holds to a vegetated ledge. Finish by climbing first leftwards and then back right.
8. Two Sunspots E2 5c ★★
A classic with fine wall climbing with a short difficult section in its centre. Follow a vague flake line to reach a shallow scoop and respite. Make a few tricky moves leftwards onto a good flake hold and climb the obvious crack to the capping bulges. Take care here stepping left and then rightwards through them.
10. Midnight Summer Dream E5 6a ★★
A very fine route with sustained interest throughout and good gear but still feeling a little urgent. Low in the grade. Climb a hollow lower wall to reach the prominent leftwards-trending crackline. At the top of this, BR, step slightly left and pull awkwardly over a bulge onto a thin flakeline, TRs. Follow this to reach the capping bulges where moves left to join Two Sunspots give an exit rightwards through them.
9. Midnight at the Oasis E6 6b
Slightly eliminatish but technical face and spooky climbing makes it worthwhile. Follow Midnight Summer Dream to its BR, then climb carefully rightwards, all a bit insecure, to reach a PR a precarious way above. Continue direct to finish.
11. Sergeyenna E1 5b ★★
The classic of the wall with sustained interest and generally good protection throughout. Climb the next thin crack system to the right and continue via the fine wall past an old BR, if its still in, to reach the overlaps. Traverse rightward under these to the end and make a precarious move up to better holds in a groove and a finish into the trees.
12. Heart of Darkness E3 5c ★
Takes a line through Sergeyenna to give a worthy pitch. Climb up onto a pinnacle and step left before climbing up into and out of a scoop to reach the traverse of Sergeyenna. Move left and make a strenuous series of moves through the roof to reach the top.
13. Hergiani E2 5c ★
One of the older routes which when it was freed now gives a series of fingery moves all in a short space of rock. Climb up onto the pinnacle via a shallow groove on its right-hand side, then step right and make a couple of fingery pulls up into a shallow groove system. Continue up these into the trees.
14. Absent Friends E3 5c ★★
The quality routes keep arriving. Fine, sustained wall climbing. Climb the wall 5m right of the start of Hergiani to reach a series of thin flakes. Step left under a slight bulge and pull through its left-hand side somewhat urgently to gain better holds and a ledge above. Continue straight up more easily to reach a small tree at the prominent break.
15. Nostradamus E1 5b ★
A faint curving groove which is now becoming choked with dandelions marks the line. Climb the lower wall below this and make a tricky move into the groove past a large PR. Climb the shallow groove, with the occasional tricky move, to the break. Slightly to the left lies a bolt belay.
16. Rave On E3 5c ★★
The prominent rightwards trending flake marks the right-hand side of this section of this wall and gives a strenuous pitch. Climb up just right of Nostradamus and swing right into the flake line. Follow this with a strenuous exit onto easier but slightly vegetated ground. Amble up this to the break and bolt belay to the left. A direct start provides scary entertainment at E4 5c.