Mortlock's Area

1. Boobs (8a) ★★
The first of a series of impressive routes on the huge flat wall with a very hard sequence of moves for almost its entire length and eventually joining the next route for its finale.

2. Boo (7c+) ★★
Another fine technical pitch pitch with relatively straightforward climbing to just above the second BR and then an intense sequence trending slightly leftwards to reach a better series of holds at its exit.

3. Tequila Mockingbird E6 6c ★★★
A truly significant route which epitomizes the era of its creation and which to this date still remains the first ascencionist’s favorite route. The centre of the wall has changed a little since its creation, some holds having come off at the start, but it still remains a true milestone in the history of Peak limestone climbing. The situ gear is also back to 2BRs and 2PRs to provide a mind numbing and fingery experiece. Some say 7c if the first BR is pre-clipped but you need a ruddy big stick.

4. Basic Channel (8a) ★
Another very fingery, almost sport route on the fragile walls to the right. The route can be done as a sport route by lowering it is possible to lower off twin bolts three quarters of the way up the route but for the full tick finish via Eyes of Fire where some small wires will be needed.

5. The Freedom Trap E5 6a ★
A sadly overlooked pitch on the upper walls via a technical wall and flake past 3PRs.

The Poverty Trap (7a+)
Bouldery bulge and wall left of The Freedom Trap.

Mantrap (7b+)
Bulging wall to the left.

The Freeman Trap
(6c+)
Very bouldery wall to the left.

6. Eyes of Fire E6 6c ★
The final route of the quintet on this magnificent wall. Although it was bolted after its inception as a trad. route (graded at about 7b+), this route has reverted to its original state to provide a difficult proposition. Not to be underestimated. Start just to the left of Mortlock’s arête and climb the left-hand crackline to join that route. Now traverse strenuously leftwards onto the face and just before you meet Tequila Mockinbird, climb straight up via a series of short-lived but very fingery moves.

7. Mortlock’s arête E4 6a, 6a ★★★
One of the great classics when first free-climbed in the late 70s. The line takes the striking thin crack in the prominent rounded arête and gives sustained climbing with two cruxes on the first pitch and a boulder problem on the second.
1. 25m
Climb the right-hand of two cracklines, the one that reaches down to the ground, and at its top make a difficult pull leftwards into the main crackline. Follow this with particular difficulties where it bulges to gain easier ground and a tree belay above.
2. 15m
The prominent groove above is gained via a trying move over the bulge and eases rapidly.

8. The Golden Mile E5 6b ★★★
Another classic pitch, one of the finest in the area at the grade, taking the gleaming white wall to the right of the arête. High in its grade and requiring tenacious route finding. Climb the shallow groove in the centre of the wall and exit rightwards to a resting place. Swing diagonally back leftwards and up to a good thread, usually in place, with the hands on the base of the small white ledge. Gain a standing position on this by using holds on the right and a reasonable rest on the left. Swing up and right to a flake using a naughty hold and sprint up to the break. Swing left to belay.

9. The Golden Dream E5 6b ★★
Climbs the wall to the right of Golden Mile to finish via the second pitch of Apocalypse. Well protected.

10. Apocalypse E4 6a, 5c ★★★
The classics keep coming. The reputation of this routes top pitch and its ‘self-removing’wires in legend. Just look back down when you are almost at the top of the pitch. The initial pitch does, however, provide its technical crux.
1. 22m Climb the large open corner to reach a belay in the break almost immediately after its crux section. Awkward belay.
2. 18m. Swing left and then up and over the bulge into the obvious hanging flake/groove. Follow this, all quite intimidating but actually quite straightforward when you get on and do it, until a swing left along the top break gives access to the finishing groove of Mortlock’s arête and subsequent relief.

11. Suddenly E5 6b
An unfortunately overlooked pitch with a good upper section which may need recleaning. Climb the technical wall right of the main angle of the bay to reach a prominent crack (Alfresco) Step up and then left onto a tufa pillar and follow this, PR, to the break.

12. Alfresco HVS 5b, 5b
One of the original ways up the face.
1. 25m From part way up the main corner of Apocalypse, swing right into a prominent crack and follow this, awkward at first, to reach the break.
2. 16m Move left until above the main corner and pull awkwardly over the overlap into a decaying groove. The finish of the next route is a marginally better alternative.

12. One Night E1 5b
Pull directly over the bulge from the stance of Alfresco into a pleasantly exposed and easier shallow groove.