The Nook

The Nook is a small cliff with a big impact consisting of a huge roof with short and powerful routes.

Although dry in the rain the cliff tends to seep fairly quickly and it needs a dry spell before it’s fully dry.

1. The Dukes of Earl (Grey) 7c
The leftmost bolted route requires careful placement of the feet and possibly a big reach.
F.A. Keith Sharlples 1994

2. Michael Foot Jam (7c+) ★★
The left side of the main ‘prow’ roof gives the Nook’s best climb. The key is in the name.
F.A. Chris Plant 1989

3. A Cure for Foot Jams (7b+) ★
Rightwards out of Foot Jam into the upper part of Arapiles.
F.A. Mark Pretty 2014

4. A Cure for Arapiles (7b) ★
Links leftwards out of Kalymnos.
F.A. Gary Gibson 1985

5. Kalymnos 8a (7a+) ★
A link from Arapiles into Santiano.
F.A. Mark Pretty 2014

6. Santiano (7a+) ★★
The original free route taking a slightly leftwards line to the lip of the prow. A Peak classic with big moves on big holds.
F.A. Tom Proctor 1979

7. A Mighty Wind (7b+) ★
Takes direct line through the steps left of The Storm.
F.A. Mark Pretty 2014

8. The Storm (7b+) ★
Another renowned test-piece with 2BRs. The finish is on the jug above the anchor.
F.A. Jerry Moffatt 1982

To the right of The Storm are some bolts from an abandoned project. Then right again is:

A Bit of Nooky (8a+) ★
Climb the very leaning initial wall to desperate moves to gain better holds. Another hard move awaits above.
F.A. Mark Pretty 1989

The Lockless Monster (7c+) ★★
The best route of the harder routes on this side with desperate moves to cross the roof. Low in the grade.
F.A. John Hart 1989

Theoria (8a+) ★
A true cellar dwellers problem just left of the tree close to the crag. The start is hideous, above marginally less so.
F.A. John Hart 1989

There’s Life in the Old Log Yet (7c) ★
The desperate wall and tiny groove starting just right of the tree.
F.A. Mark Pretty 1993