Gary Gibson leading the rebolted version of Some Coincidence (7a+). Photo: Carl Ryan
Gary Gibson on first ascent of Evidently Chicken Town (7c). Photo: Carl Ryan
The largest buttress in this part of the dale has matured into a superb sport climbing venue with a number of new and retrobolted routes. To gain the cliff, wade across the river directly below the left hand part of the crag.
Layout
The crag consists of two main sections: left and right. These are separated from each other by vegetated gully. The upper tier sits above the left section but the approach involves a traverse back left above the right section of the cliff.
Two Tier Left
This is the most popular part of the crag. It’s bigger, has more routes and a wider range of grades than the other sections. This has been further subdivided into 3 subsections. The Thoth wall has the longest routes which start from a platform at the lefthand end of the crag. The Malnutrition area is below and right of this with a long roof that all the routes must cross to reach easy ground. To the right of this is the Main Wall, a long unbroken section of rock that diminishes in height towards it’s righthand end.
Two Tier Right
With most of the sport routes here in the high sevens and above and fewer routes overall this section sees far less activity than Two Tier Left.
It’s easily reached, just a few metres further along the path from the righthand end of Two Tier Left.
The Upper Tier
With concentrated batch of fine hard routes along with tricky access this fine sheet of limestone is typically relatively quiet.
To reach the cliff, follow a path up a grassy slope from the righthand end of Two Tier Right. This takes you above Spizz Energy et al to a tree with sling and lower-off. An abseil from this leads to the terrace below the wall.
Descent is then from another tree fixed with a lower-off, just below The Tier Drop X-plodes.
Conditions
Two Tier is wet in winter months and recieves little or no sun. However once dry in the spring it tends to remain dry for the whole season. In the summer months it remains shady until around 3pm on the right and an hour or so later on the left.
Approach
When approaching from the Miller’s Dale end of the valley gain the Monsal Trail from the far (west) end of the car park and follow it for 800m to a long tunnel. When the tunnel ends go through a gap in the wall on the left and follow the path and stone steps down to the a path along the river. Turn left here and go across a footbridge over the river. Carry along the river passing The Nook and Nettle Buttress. A section of stepping stones lead to Max Buttress and the left end of Two Tier is opposite. Go a little further upstream to find the spot to wade the river. A short path on the opposite side leads up to the crag at the Main Wall section of the left buttress.