Approach
Bend Tor is in Matlock which is reached from the North or South via the A6. Free parking can be tricky, particularly on a busy summer weekend though the wiley climber can usually find somewhere on the outskirts of the town. There are several laybys with free parking on the A6 but these tend to fill up quickly. There is also free parking on the waste ground at the bottom of Lorry Park Quarry but access is via the little road to the council buildings and the gates to this are usually locked shut by around 5 - 5.30pm. The alternative is to Pay and Display at around £6 per day.
From the town centre walk south down the A6 until you can cross over the river via a wrought iron bridge. Turn right and follow the river until the crag can be seen through the trees up to the left.A steep path leads up to the base of the left hand side of the crag. The obvious bolted groove is the classic Dancing with Mr. D.
Character
Bend Tor is a mini mecca for the 7a+ climber. The left side is smoother face climbing on excellent rock. The right side is more blocky and steeper on bigger holds.
The crag is in the shade during the summer months until around 4pm. It can also stay fairly dry in rain with the base sheltered by the crags and the trees.