Character
Another very worthwhile discovery with a number of routes mainly in the lower 6s. The rock is very pleasant and unusual being of sold limestone with a profusion of calcite nodules with isolated sections of flowstone. At its highest the cliff reaches up to 25m but the majority of routes are between 10 - 15m in length.
Approach
This is quite straightforward but does require a bit of care. Drive into Wirskworth when approaching from Cromford and pass a petrol station on your right. Take the first turning right after this (150m) into Market Place by ‘Ken’s Mini Market into a very narrow cobbled road. Once through the ’narrows, the road becomes very steep. Drive carefully up this to the top where the road descends to a horseshoe bend: park here.
Go up the steps and through a kissing gate and follow the wide track for 150m. Just after a steep descent, hop over the gate on your left and the crag is immoderately visible.
Aspect
The crag is very open, faces south and gets any sun that is going. If it is windy this can make it cold but shelter can be had by climbing in ’the ditch’.
Access
As with all quarries, access is forbidden. Please be discrete and if asked to leave do so quietly.