Numero Uno Wall
This impressive section of wall is dominated by the central crackline of Numero Uno which splits the wall from top to bottom. The first route starts 5m right of the obvious brown pillar on the right-hand side of the wall.
1. Reverential Rib (6b) ★
The arête taken initially via a few holds on its left-hand side, then mainly on the right. Slightly hollow low down but worthwhile above.
2. Lecherous Pig (6b)
Eliminate line on right-hand side of rib not touching crack on right.
3. Crich Almighty E4 6a ★★
Start 5m to the left, just right of a prominent arête. Climb the prominent crackline, PR to start, which eases to a steepening and a good ledge above. The impressive curving crackline above, gained via the wall to its left, leads gradually leftwards to a ledge and superb, steep finishing crack. Can begin up Reverential Rib
4. Frank Carsington E4 6a ★★★
Another incredible line up the centre of the wall from the half-height ledge of Big Thing Coming via a prominent crack. Well protected with good wires and 2PRs.
5. Big Thing Coming E3 5c ★★★
A magnificent wall climb. Climb the shallow right-facing groove just left of Numero Uno and swing left at its top to a ledge. Continue up the left-facing flake/groove swinging out right to the half-height ledge, PR. Step right and climb straight up the impeding wall, 3PRs, slightly leftwards to a small ledge and fine finishing crack.
6. Numero Uno 28m E1 5b ★
The big crack up the centre of the wall with interest.
The next route begins at a rib 5m to the left and just right of the prominent crackline.
7. The Giant Pot 30m E3 5c ★★
Climb the rib until it is possible to traverse rightwards (above the shattered rock) along a slab to a ledge - this point can be gained direct as For Intake’s Sake. Up the steep wall with worrying protection to another ledge below a thin crack. Good protection and interesting technical moves up this to a half-height ledge. Move back left to the steep crack system which is sustained until a resting ledge is reached. Continue back rightwards then finish direct on good holds. Superb and high in the grade. Can be split into two pitches.
8. For Intake’s Sake 28m E4 6a ★★
Again, very fine. Climb the wall 3m to the right via a ledge and small right-facing groove to a second ledge. Climb the thin crack above, shared with the Giant Pot, to the main half-height ledge. Continue up the sustained face above past 4BRs to exit slightly right and up via a thin crack. Friend 2 useful here.
9. Everything Must Go 28m E3 6a ★
Climb a vague groove, step right to a PR, then up onto the top of the pancake. Climb the thin crack above, 2PRs, by some long moves to gain the ledge. Continue straight up via a groove to some good holds above. Continue straight up the easier but steeper crackline to more ledges and an airy finish slightly to the left.
10. Could I, Should I, Would I? 28m E4 6a ★★
Superb climbing, relatively well protected low down and bolted above. From the half-height ledge on Everything Must Go, move right to below the smooth-looking wall and climb straight up this by superb moves past 5BRs to the top.
11. Crumbling Empire (6c+)
Short difficult route on poor rock with a hard start and finish. Not on topo and just to the left.
12. Ho Hum 25m E3 5c ★
Start at the next thin crack. Climb this direct via a left-facing corner, PR on right wall, to its end. Climb the steep wall above, PR, swing right onto a ledge. Finish initially straight up the headwall, then rightwards.
13. I Love You 29m E2 5b ★★★
Follow the crack through a slight overlap to a ledge. Continue up the crack to move right into the corner below the overhang; exit right to a pedestal. Pull quickly through the short steep wall to another ledge. Continue direct up the superb headwall on hidden holds and fossils. Fantastic exposure, take a large rack.
14. Drink the Girl Drunk (6b)
A short slabby wall with a technical sequence to gain the belay. Lies just left of an elder tree.
For Intakes Sake, an E4 on Numero Uno.
