This small, rather scrappy looking quarry, was recently bolted and has become popular. Despite the aesthetic the climbing is good with a range of routes from 6a to 7b. There’s no walk in, the crag dries quickly, and gets the morning sun and afternoon shade all of which doubtless add to the appeal.
Ron Fawcett on Flight of the Phoenix (6c+).
Approach
By car
When travelling south on the A6 turn right onto the B5036 for Cromford and Wirksworth. After 1.8 miles turn right onto Middleton Road (B5023) and the quarry entrance is immediately on the left side of the road.
If approaching from the south on the A6 turn left onto the B5035, Wirksworth Road, to Wirksworth. Turn right onto Harrison Drive (B5023). After 300 metres turn into Middleton Road (B5023) and the quarry is immediately on the left.
Public transport
If not using a car you can get the train to Wirksworth Station and the crag is less than 10 minutes away. Come out of the station onto the main road, Coldwell Street. Turn right and then right again onto Station Road. After 150 metres turn left onto a path which goes around the edge of school grounds. At the front of the school turn right on the road and then right again onto North End. This leads to the main road, Harrison Drive (B5023). Turn right onto this and Middleton Road and the quarry entrance is on the left after 70 metres.
