Lime Kiln topo

Lime Kiln Quarry layout

Bottle Wall

This is the leftmost wall with an overhang in the middle. A low level boulder problem traverse of the wall is possible Bandwagonesque with a sport grade of 7a.

Bottle Wall topo

1. Pop Bottle (6c)
Climbs through the R side of the roof.

2. One Green Bottle (6b+) ★★
The groove to the R of the roof.

3. One Green Seb (6b)
A link up providing the easiest line up this wall. Starts up One Green Bottle, crosses the Nostrums and Quackery using its second and third bolts, and then finishes up More Seb than Seb.

4. Nostrums and Quackery (7a)
A hard boulder problem on sharp rock.

5. More Seb than Seb (6b+)
Follows the line of resin bolts.

6. Mrs Winslow’s Soothing Syrup (6c+)
The wall to the right. 4BR.

7. Fischer King (7a)
The wall right of a crack with a hard start via an undercut. A key hold broke off in Sept 24 so it may be harder now.

Main Wall

Lime Kiln Quarry Main Wall

8. Sweet Misdemeanour (7b)

9. Caffeine Consciousness (7a+) ★★
Starts up a slim groove below an overlap and flake.

10. Popcorn (7a) ★★

11. Nicotine Rush (6a)

Amethyst Wall

Lime Kiln Quarry Amethyst Wall

12. The Hardest Man In Wirksworth (6b+)
Up a groove to the break then follow the LH line of bolts.

13. Snooze and You Lose (6c+)

14. Flight of the Phoenix (6c+)
Starts below an overlap and goes up and leftwards onto the headwall. A direct start can be climbed, straight past the first 2 BR, at the same grade.

15. Amethyst Wall (6c) ★★
The best line on this part of the crag.

16. Mystic Crystals (6b+)
Climbs the groove starting on the right.

17. Mystic Crystals Direct (7a+) ★★
A direct, boulder problem start to the last route.

18. Diamond Dogs (6a+)

19. Diamond Geezer (6a)