Mark Richardson on Future Primitive (7b)
Character
A gently leaning sheer wall of quarry limestone on the slightly overhanging side gives some highly impressive sport climbs of the intense variety. Small holds and smooth rock are the order of the day with no routes at the lower levels of difficulty. In fact the warm-up is 6c!
Conditions
The crag faces north and gets no sunshine whatsoever, making it an ideal summer venue. The wall does take seepage after rain but can be sheltered and climbable when the rain is light.
Approach
This quarry is situated just to the north of Matlock Bath right off the A6 and slightly downstream of High Tor. It is not easily seen after the spring months due to the foliage on the trees
The quarry is best identified from the north. When travelling south and just after passing High Tor will be seen a lay-by on the left: this is just before a foot bridge over the river and before a second layby. The quarry is situated on the right just after this and after a row of garages.
When travelling from the south, pass the left-hand bend in Matlock Bath just by the station and the second layby and bridge is just after this on the right.
Parking
This can be difficult in the summer months and especially at weekends. Utilizing the laybys is the best options but requires arriving early or just being lucky. Parking on the road is not an option as it is severely limited to 2 hours. The only other option is parking in the Station pay and display and walking back up the road.