John Allen’s Wall | Sport Climbs UK

This popular and secluded wall was developed by the late great gritstone legend John Allen. It’s at the far (left hand) end of the upper tier with routes around 20 metres long. Some of the routes contain a lot of bolts so make sure you have enough quickdraws (around 14 or 15 should suffice).

John Allens wall topo

1. Big John (6b+)
At the far LH end of the wall an awkward wall leads to a hanging groove. Up this to an exist left and a final steep finish.

Alpha Whale
The awkward wall the the right leads to a ledge with a crux crack finish.

Project

2. Fuji (7a) ★★
A climb of two distinct havles finishing up the thin crack in the headwall.

3. Superleggers (6c) ★★
A fine climb via the obvious cracklin with a difficult start.

4. Spirit of Ectasy (6b) ★★
a bit of a ‘pop’ for a hold at the start and then superb pocket and jug pulling

5. Aperta (7a) ★★
Varied face climbing with several tricky sections.

6. Superveloce (6c+) ★★
another excellent route, reachy low down and with a diffcult/trying move on the upper wall.

7. Stoked for the Send (6b)
a pleasant little route to half hieght on the wall.

8. Psyched for the Stoke (6a+)
shorter on the right and perhaps the wall’s warm up route