Angler Section
This third part of the wall is separated from the previous by ivy and has a different character. The starts tend to be easy and go up somewhat chossy rock with the harder climbing higher up. This section extends all the way to where the wall turns into the roof of Rubicon.
The next 3 routes share the same start behind a tree:
The Terror of the Seven Seas (7c)
The wall and bulge left of Professor Kirk.
F.A. Mark Pretty 2016
1. Professor Kirk (7b)
Hard locks to pass the bulge.
F.A. Paul Mitchell 1983
Maureen (6c)
Starts up Professor Kirk but heads right to pull over the bulge rightwards. Good moves and less reachy than the next route.
F.A. Paul Mitchell 1983
2. First and Foremost (aka Point of No Return) (6c)
Hard moves through the final bulge. Award yourself an extra grade or two if you are short.
F.A. Paul Freeman 2015
3. Last but not Least (7a) ★
A good problem with the hardest moves through/above the top bulge.
F.A. Paul Freeman 2010
4. Trunk of Punk (7a+)
A desperate rightwards exit.
F.A. Gary Gibson 2015
5. Sperm Worm E5 6a
A short bold sequence above a peg.
F.A. Paul Mitchell 1983
6. Dumb Animal E5 6a
A series of layaways leading rightwards from the ledge, 3PRs. Serious.
F.A. Chris Plant 1988
7. The Pinch Test (7c+) ★
Very bouldery climbing leftwards from part way up The Angler.
F.A. Mark Pretty 2009
8. The Angler (7c) ★
One of the hardest moves on the wall finishing via flakes.
F.A. Dominic Lee 1981
9. The Wimp (7c) ★
A leftwards exit from the Sissy to join The Angler.
10. The Sissy (8a) ★★
Desperately fingery climbing on ‘knife-edge’ holds from just below mid-height.
F.A. Chris Plant 1989
11. Zeke the Freak (8b) ★★
The leaning wall to the right provides a masterpiece of difficulty. Britain’s first 8b.
F.A. Ben Moon 1987
12. The Bastard (8c+/9a) ★★
The bulges to the right constitute the free version of the old aid route Free That You Bastards. Orignally graded 8c it’s now known to be harder but with so few ascents just how much harder is somewhat speculative.
F.A. Jon Welford 1995