The Cornice

Brachiation Dance at The Cornice
Brachiation Dance, the easiest of many classics on the Cornice.

Introduction

The Cornice in Water Cum Jolly, not to be confused with the crag of the same name in Cheedale, is perhaps the most specatular piece of rock in the Water Cum Jolly. With the exception of Brachiation Dance (7a+) most of the major lines are in the hard 7 or 8 grades. However there are a number of very worthwhile routes on the left side at around 7a plus a couple more on the right.

Conditions

The crag faces east making it a great summer venue from around 1pm when it goes into the shade.

Approach

The Cornice is roughly midway between the Litton Mill end and Cressbrook. You can approach for either end or even from the Monsal Trail. The approach from Rubicon/Cressbrook end is most often used and takes about 15 or 20 minutes.

Park as for Rubicon and walk through Litton Mill. After a 100 yards or so follow the path rightwards to a footbridge by the weir at the end of the lake at Rubicon. Cross over this taking care as some of the wood is rotten. Once over turn right and head up the hill. Follow the path to the right, and continue along the edge of hill as for Moat Buttress. Eventually the path reaches a fence. Hope over this and head down and walk alongside the Monsal Trail and above an old railway embankment for about 50m. The path then goes down into the trees and after a short way the crags of Swamp Wall are passed. The Cornice is just a little further and cannot be missed.