Majorca Buttress

This is a small previously developed crag that has been brought up to date by the re-bolting of its existing routes and the addition of a handful more. It is short (max 15m), has good compact rock and provides a number of technical and fingery pitches.

Approach

Cross the bridge at the eastern end of Rubicon Wall and follow the path up some limestone steps. As they end, take the path on the right which contours the hillside above the cliffs and emerges at a stile just before the end of a railway tunnel. Just past the ‘stile’ take a vague path back down rightwards and contour back under the cliffs, past the imposing Crunch Buttress, to the foot of the wall.

1. You got No Reason (7a)
A desperate bouldery start through the bulge followed by a technical little wall

2. Rhyme Crime (7a+)
A desperate little start with an excellent, technical wall above.

3. Who got Rhyme (6c) ★
Another hard start and excellent wall.

4. Rhyme and Reason (6c) ★
Technical moves into and out of a shallow groove, then pleasant wall

5. Reserve Judgment (7a)
A very technical section at the second bolt, then easier.

6. Happy Days (6c+)
Very fingery low down on the compact wall.

7. Oh Dear! (6c+) ★
A fingery start, then fine wall climbing

8. Four Men Tour (6c) ★
A problematic start then easier on good holds.

9. Val de Mossa (6c+)
A fingery start but easier above bulge.

10. Blanca Expression (7a)
A desperate start then more of the same. High in grade.

11. The Majorca Alternative (7a)
A very bouldery little start.

12. Costa del Jolly (7a)
More fingery edges

13. Wish you were Here (6b)
An easier route on the right fringe of the wall.

14. Do I? (6b+)
An easy start followed by a steep flake.