Swamp Wall

Introduction

These walls have a handful of routes 4 to 7a+. The first has overhanging power problems and takes a while to dry whilst the second wall has open face climbs close to the river and dries more quickly.

Approach

A little tricky. From Cressbrook Mill, go through the mill to the weir and cross the bridge before Rubicon Wall wall. After a few rock steps, turn right and follow the path above the cliffs overlooking the river on the right. After around 5 minutes go over a fence and down onto the railway track (the Monsal Trail). Follow this briefly and before the next tunnel hop over the fence and pick up a a path heading down into the trees. The first wall with five routes is soon evident. The second wall is just below and the third further down and around the corner at the water’s edge.

1. Dappled (4)
The short route on left.

2. Hombre (5+)
The left side of wall with short tricky section.

3. Condom Nations (6b) ★
The centre of wall on good rock with a short tricky section.

4. Land Nodule (6a+)
The right-hand of trio with a good and somewhat bling sequence.

5. King Kane (5)
The bulge and thin crack.

6. Friday Club (6a+) ★
The right-hand side of wall is very pleasant.

7. Anyday Club (6a)
The right-most route with a tricky finale.

1. Spiralling Out (6b+)
A short undercut wall leads to a ledge. The upper wall is furnished with good holds and a span right to the belay

2. The Power Grab (7a+) ★
A short wall and groove to a ledge. The upper wall has a very problematic finish on hidden holds.

3. Yard Sale (7a+) ★
A straightforward start to a ledge and then a very bouldery bulge above.

4. Helter Skelter (6c+) ★
A steep and fingery start to a ledge then a series of big pulls through the bulges onto a flake. Good climbing

The wall down and around to the right gives three short technical routes.

1. Margins of my Mind (6b+)
The leftmost line via a shallow groove line.

2. Swamp Fever (7a+)
A desperate little sequence to the right.

3. Tsetse Piece (7a+)
More of the same right again.

4. Gnat Attack (7a)
An intense little test piece just right to a shared belay.

5. One Greenbottle (7a+) ★
The very difficult but short section on the line to the right to a shared belay.

6. Bluebottle Life (6c) ★
A leftwards line with a tough start past the first bolt and slightly easier climbing above.