For variety and continuity of climbs this area has to lay claim to being the best on the whole crag. Most of the routes have some or all fixed gear with a mixture of climbing including roofs, walls, grooves and cracks. The area has a generally flat base and should become very popular for those operating in the E4 range.
Unfortunately there is nothing to tempt the easier grade climber as the only E2 is a bit vegetated. Identifying features are a little tricky but they include a series of stepped roofs towards the right-hand side, a prominent flake crack in the bottom centre of the lower wall and an obvious groove system bounding the left-hand side of the sector.
1. On the Game E5 6b
Prominent large groove system. Easy low down, hard and bold off the ledge, then easy again. PR
2. Pet cemetery (7a) ★★
The first of the roof routes and a classic. Hard off ledge, then jug hauling through the roof stack.
3. Aerial Combat (7b+) ★★
Appropriately named. Superb gymnastics through the centre of the roof above the terrace.
4. 96 Tiers (7b) ★★
Technical and sustained hanging shallow groove in the upper wall. The lower wall is straightforward.
5. A Gathering of Old Men (7a+) ★
Easy flake then very technical headwall via pinches and undercuts.
6. You’re My Comic Strip Hero E2 5c
Easy flake then harder-than-it-looks groove, PR.
7. Let’s Celebrate (7a+) ★★
Front face of pillar then headwall right of groove. Again great moves above terrace.
8. The Beauty of it All (7a) ★★
Magnificent face climbing on the upper wall.
9. Gunsel E3 6a ★★
A classic in the making. Fine face and shallow groove system.
10. After Midnight E3 5c ★
Through overlap then unusual moves up faint groove.
11. Tier-Gas (7a+) ★★
Hard moves off terrace then superb face.
12. It’s A Sin (7a+) ★
Sustained climbing once the first BR of six is clipped.
13. Helter Skelter E2 6a
Obvious shallow groove system, hard off terrace, TR. NEW BELAY ADDED AND RECLEANED