Main Cliff

Dinas Rock Main Cliff topo

1. Spore Wars (8a) ★★★
Brilliant, sustained climbing in two parts. BA to surmount roof at 7c or free at the above. Good rest at half-height.

H1N1 8a
Climbs Bloody Spore Climbers over roof and then direct up overhanging wall to right edge of slab, from jug on slab move right into Subversive Body Pumping to finish.

2. Subversive Body Pumping (7b+) ★★
Hideous entry into groove, English 6c - leads to a superb crack and an airy rightwards exit.

3. Powers That Be (7c) ★★
Rightwards line from just above crux of Subversive into Berlin, then onto Still Life for its finish.

4. Dinasty (8a) ★★★
Pulls through the desperate lower overhangs to a respite on the slab with an impressive finish up the leaning wall above.

5. Berlin (7a+) ★★★
A modern classic with sustained technical interest throughout. Bouldery at the start. It is possible to take the right-hand finish from the top BR and finish over the overlaps on the right as for Still Life/Powers That Be at 7b.

3. Hayabusa 7c+ ★★
Once on the slab above the first overlap on Berlin, head up and left crossing Powers That Be to finish via the upper part of Dinasty.

6. Still Life (7b+) ★★★
Technical wizardry throughout. Move right out of Berlin to gain the left-hand side of the obvious arête. The bulge above gives a fitting climax.

7. Angel Heart E6 6c
The original way onto the arête had an aid point but has since been freed. Desperate and very sporting, hence grade.

8. Outta Time(7c+) ★★
Gain the face as for Chives but climb the left arête of the Big Time groove to join Chives for the finale. Eliminatish but good.

9. Big Time E6 6c ★★
The long slim corner with a desperate entry. The groove is bold (RPs) and the direct finish over the roof is entertaining to say the least.

10. Crock of Gold 7c+ ★★★
A pumpy/dynamic roof is combined with a hideously thin slab - get those very sticky boots out or peddle for Wales.

11. The Sharp Cereal Professor (7b) ★★★
A recently concocted series of problems incorporating Salem’s Lot. A powerful and dynamic roof is coupled with a superb and intricate face above. Take care with rope drag.

12. Muchas Maracas (7c) ★★
From below the second roof on Sharp Cereal professor, undercut out right across Harlem to join Hawaiian Chance and pull the overhang to a new belay.

13. Harlem (7b+) ★★★
A magnificent varied route with all the hallmarks of a great climb: power, a sustained nature and technicalities.

14. Hawaiian Chance (7b+) ★★
A direct eliminate via Spain. A strenuous roof and desperate move left out of Spain. The bolt does not affect Spain despite misguided comments from some.

15. Spain E4 6a ★★★
A traditional hard classic twixt grooves, overlaps and slabs. Plenty of technical moves, a thuggish pull and numerous TRs for good measure.

16. Groovy Tube Day E2 5c ★★★
Another classic branching off right from Spain into the tube. Quite strenuous low down and technical to gain the tube. Abseil off from TB above.

17. Dr Van Steiner 7a+
A worthwhile selection of problems with a few rubbish holds thrown in for good measure. Spooky.

18. Venice 7a
A short thuggy roof. Not yet bolted.