Gilwern Lower

Another surprising find situated below and to the left of the parking spot below the path up to the main crag. It has some very pleasant routes but with a rubbish tip below it. It faces northwest and gets the late afternoon sun.

1. Coming Unstuck (6b)
A diffficult boulder problem start then easier.

2. I’m Stuck, I’m Off (6b)
Pleasantly sustained with a bit of a reach for the belay.

3. Stig of the Dump (6a)
A short pleasant wall on good holds.

4. Stickle Brick (5)
Straightforward climbing on the left-hand side of the next buttress.

5. Stick it up ’em (6a) ★
Good ’tumps’ and rugosities.

6. Stick it to ’em (6a+) ★
More of the same via a shallow scoop.

7. Evostick (4)
Easier on the right but still pleasant.

8. Rubber, Blubber (6c) ★
A super little pitch with technicalities and varied moves.

9. Tyre and Brimstone (6a)
Pleasant face climbing.

10. Funeral Tyre (6a+)
The brown drainage streak with tricky moves low down.

11. Tyred Out (6b)
The slabby face steepens gradually to a fingery finale.

12. Retyred (5) ★
The superb little crackline/jug-fest to the right.

13. Too Tyred? (6c) ★
Fingery face climbing to the right.

14. Unnamed (7a) ★
Fine fingery climbing up the smooth grey face.

15. Pirelli Times (7b+)
Desperate and very reachy moves just above the second bolt. Has a small hollow undercut.

16. Open project

17. It’s been a Goodyear (6b+) ★
Pleasant face on sidepulls to big jugs.

18. Dunlop Special (6b)
Fingery move and long reach above ledge - harder for the short.

19. Retread (6b) ★
Really pleasant face climbing.

20. Remoulded (6c)
Undercuts, layaways and small finger edges.

21. Tyre Times (6c)
Another miriad of holds - layaways and edges.

22. Locking Nut (6c+)
Extending mvoes through the bulge and a hard move left and up.

23. Onto the Canvas (5)
Pleasant face climbing.

24. Bald Patch (5)
Right-hand line to same belay - easier.

25. Mal Alignment (5)
Easy slab to a steep finish.

26. Get Tracking (6a)
Really pleasant blunt rib.

27. Wear and Tear (5)
Pleasant easy face.

28. Wheel and Tyre (6a)
Pleasant face to intricate finish.