Gary Gibson on the first ascent of Total Pants (7b). Photo Carl Ryan
Situation
This large open quarry can easily be found on right-hand side of the A4265 when travelling from Bridgend to Southerndown. It is the large, recently departed quarry with the ‘Climbing Prohibited’ signs on its front gates!
Character
The main feature of the quarry is a 100m long by 40m high wall of superb soft-grained limestone. This is undoubtedly one of the best pieces of rock on inland Welsh Limestone. This provides a large number of hard pitches of the fingery and technical style. They dry very quickly after rain, the wall faces south and is the ideal autumn/winter/spring venue There are a number of other easier routes scattered about the quarry.