Quarry Layout

This is very extensive but the main wall is obvious by its size. The remainder of the quarry has a number of other walls identified in the diagram and text to the right.

On entering the quarry the first wall on the right-hand side is set above a small retaining wall. This has been christened: The League of Gentleman Wall Original the wall could be gained via a fixed rope which has subsequently been removed by the quarrymen. It will now be necessary to tackle the initial wall before the ledge system below the main wall is gained. This has been equipped with a number of bolt belays. The following routes take cracklines and are described from right to left: Gentleman’s Relish (6b) Obvious crackline and a little dusty Welcome to Royston Vasey (6b+) getting a little harder but no less dusty Precious Things (6c) hardest and best on wall Special Stuff (6a) the warm-up.

A little further to the left, defining the left-hand side of the League of Gentleman Wall, is another small wall with three lines of bolts. Ladder of Desire (6b+) the right-hand line occasionally using the arête the central line Unnamed (7a) and Panty Hose (6a) the easier left-hand line via a faint groove.

Again, another 50m further on and just before the main wall, is another small wall with two lines of bolts. Drip Free (6b) the right-hand line and Panty Liner (6b+) the trickier left-hand line.

Now comes the impressive length of cliff some 100m long and 40m high, one of the best walls in South Wales containing a collection of highly meritable routes. This is The Main Wall.

The opposite side of the quarry is composed of a series of walls below which lies an obvious quarry track leading up from the entrance to the quarry. After 300m this track splits, the lower track continuing into the centre of the quarry and the upper track taking a hairpin bend before reaching the summit of the quarry (this is descended when approaching from the alternative mentioned in the preamble). Above the upper track lies a wall currently with two routes, Top Cheese (6b) the left-hand line and Bottom Cheese (6a) the right-hand line, with plenty of scope for the future.

If the lower track is followed for a further 50m this leads to Rusty Walls: Red with Rage (6a) is the left-hand line, Runnel Vision (7a+) ★ the central line and Rusty Roy (6b) the right-hand. Another 50m further on The Black Walls offer three unnamed routes at, from left to right, 6a, 6b+ and 6b.