Pant Quarry Topo

The Main Wall

The first routes start from the right-hand side of a terrace below the wall. This can be gained via a short gully and fixed rope. The first route starts atop another subsidiary pillar - it is advisable not to do this route whilst other people are climbing routes from the right-hand side of the terrace.

1. I Can, I Can’t (6b+) ★
The steep jug-filled wall with flakes and pockets.

2. Totally Invalid (6c) ★
The first route uses gold BRs from right-hand of main terrace - just two or three hard moves.

3. Angela’s Ashes (6c) ★★
Fine wall climbing with hard moves through a small overlap. Excellent face climbing above.

4. Ponty Pandy (6c+) ★★
The next line has a hard start and much easier climbing above. Again excellent.

5. Llandfill-A-Gogoch (7b) ★★
A hard wall route identified by a thread runner. Very fingery.

6. Project

7. Project

8. Time to Dai (7b+) ★★
Climb direct above a tree by sustained climbing to a difficult finish on rounded holds.

9. Dai Laughing (8a) ★★★
A right-hand of a pair of superb routes on central section of wall. Sustained and hard. 60m rope required.

10. Maesteg-a-Saurus (8a) ★★★
This is the left-hand line which rejoins Dai Laughing at half height.

11. Total Pants (7a+) ★★
A superb, sustained test-piece straight up the wall above the initial ramp/flake. Low in grade with two or three long reaches.

12. Panteon Shot (7a) ★★
Climb a shallow groove to ledge system then continue up a difficult wall and superb groove above. A classic.

13. Unnamed (7a+) ★
The groove just left again after start of Panteon Shot (finishes at first double BB)

14. Unnamed (8a+) ★
Desperate direct start via rounded edges. Starts to the left of the initial BRs.

15. Welsh Fargo (7c+) ★★★
The classic of the wall taking the very slim crack system.

Thieving Little Scrote (7c+) ★★★
The upper wall and huge flake left of Welsh Fargo.

16. Caught Mid Shot (6c+) ★
A poor flake line with projects above.

17. Unnamed (7b+) ★★
Has a desperately fingery lower wall. Three hard crimpy sections.

18. Herr Helmutt Schmutt (6b) ★
A potential warm up route starting via flake to a blue lower-off.

19. Helmet Cheese (7a) ★★
A long route taking a vague rib and overlap low down. The route continues to the second BB.

20. Pinch the Helmet (6b+) ★
Climb an angled flake to a ledge (6a) then rightward across wall to first BB of Helmet Cheese.

21. Radical Re-entry (7a) ★★★
This superb route climbs up a blunt rib and flake system. It’s obvious by the sling on one of the bolts.

22. Unnamed (7a)
Short undercut crackline to ledge with four projects above the large corner to the left is

23. Twisted to Fit (7a+) ★★
Shallow groove to ledge, pillar above in two stages to large flake jug. Leftwards and up to finish via pillar.

Clampitt’s Corner E1 5a
A huge corner line provides a trad route with a horrible start - can also be gained via the ledges above 22. BB at the top to lower-off.

50 metres to the left of the main wall is an isolated slab containing a row of BRs. This has been christened Matt’s Slab (6b+) ★