Gary Gibson on Wet Afternoon (7b+), Taffs Well Right.
A big brooding cliff with the easiest of access just waiting for some rejuvenation in the form of rebolting and new route activity. The problem about this is the effort required to do it but once achieved this will doubtless become a popular cliff, something which it never has been!
At this moment in time there are a number of good routes, described fully in the topo, the original ones from Martin Crocker and more latterly an excellent pair from Gary Gibson but this undoubtedly remains one for the future.
Character
All of the routes give vertical or just off vertical wall climbing with technical and sustained climbing on little edges and layaways throughout. Some of the rock is akin to solid weetabix but the with the size of the bolts don’t let this put you off.
Conditions
The cliff gets the sun in the afternoon which usually dries off the majority of damp patches. Seepage lines on Wet Afternoon last until about June but relatively speaking the cliff takes little other seepage. Due to the busy road weekends and summer evenings are the best bet.
Goi Ashmore leading Ghengis Khan (6c), Calcite Wall. Photo Gary Gibson
Climbing at Taffs Well Main