Edge-hog the classic arête (7b+) on Dunraven Cliff.
Introduction
This fine crag, composed of the highest quality limestone, is situated above a magnificent beach on the western side of Dunraven Bay, Southerndown, near to Ogmore-by-Sea. It offers excellent sport climbing on vertical to overhanging rock with a range of grades from 3+ to 8a+. The cliff is easily accessed and has the advantage of being situated on a ‘blue flag’ beach.
Martin Crocker rediscovered the crag in 1986 adding several new routes. It was subsequently developed in the early Nineties as a sport crag by Roy Thomas and Gary Gibson, with the odd gem from Crocker and Eugene Jones. This magnificent little cliff is South Wales’ answer to Lower Pen Trwyn.
The climbing generally features steep or overhanging walls with edges, tufas and pockets with the occasional large roof thrown in. All the climbing is sustained and wonderful.
Conditions
The crag faces north-west, getting the sun in late afternoon from May onwards. From then on it dries quickly after rainfall, though can get damp in very humid weather. In the winter months it gets no sun and suffers from large amounts of seepage.
Access
There are no access issues at present. However note this is a busy, family beach. Please respect this by avoiding foul language and any antisocial behaviour. Also note that dogs are not allowed on the beach during the Summer months.
Layout
Approach
From Bridgend, take the B4265 southwards to St. Brides Major. Turn right at the Post Office and follow the B4524 to Southerndown. Turn left by the Three Golden Cups pub and follow the road down a steep hill to a car park. A small charge is usually required. The cliff is situated on the left-hand side of the beach on an obvious promontory.
The crag is partially tidal although most of the routes are accessible at high tide. You can walk across the beach to reach the crag except for around 1.5 hours either side of high tide. At such times you can approach from above: follow the track up the hillside and identify a small track right of a small bramble bush above the crag. This leads down to a small high level crag (Tufa Terrace) below which is an abseil ring. Descent from this gains the crag.
