Cwmaman topo

The South Wall

An impressive wall with very fine climbing. Unfortunately, a few too many eliminates are creeping onto the wall thus destroying the character of the original routes. The wall can get very hot in the sun and takes a little seepage towards its right-hand side. No bolt belays have yet been placed.

1. Good Tradition E2 5c
First line right of corner, 2PRs.

2. Clear Head and A Blow Lamp E3 6a
Sustained but well protected crack with 3PRs.

3. Unnamed (7b) ★
Fingery direct line up the wall just to the right. A few suspect holds have been suggested.

4. Mother of Pearl (7a+) ★★
Immaculate face climbing on the centre of the wall with a particularly fingery crux. PRs, 2BRs.

5. Two For Tuesday E4 6a
Thin, scruffy crack on right-hand side of wall.

6. The World is my Lobster E4 6a
The vague arête of the next compact wall to the right.

7. Propaganda (7a) ★★★
The best route on the wall taking the first bolted line to the right. Sustained, fingery but not too technical.

8. Science Friction (7b) ★★
The right-hand of the two lines. Similar in many ways but with a nasty start. It then maintains the interest to the top.

9. La Rage (7b) ★★
A superb pitch incorporating the hardest moves on the wall. Sustained but easier above.

10. Innuendo (7a+) ★
The final route of the wall often suffers the dreaded seepage. Excellent when dry but warrants recleaning and regearing beforehand.

The walls to the right contain a couple of filler-in style routes with BRs for protection. Zoo Time and Instead of This are both graded 6a.

arête Buttress

Clearly visible opposite the entrance to the quarry, this face offers an arrayof worthwhile routes in the middle extreme grade range. Whilst all the routes are yet to be fully equipped, the pitches are generally very clean and worthwhile.

1. Hot Beef Injection (6c) ★
fine, intricate, face climbing. Unusually delicate for sandstone.

2. Spam Javelin HVS 5a
the crack which proves a little dirty

3. Neo-Max Zoom Weenie E3 6a ★
more pleasant, technical face climbing.

4. Porc Sword (6b)
right-hand side of the arête proves pleasant.

5. Anniversary Stroll (6a)
wall via shallow cave, 3BRs.

6. Hey Mister (6a+) ★
fine climbing via a rising crackline.

7. Pete’s Route E2 5b
wall climbing to the right.