Cwmcarn

This small quarry, recently cleaned and redeveloped, situated near to Cross keys and Sirhowy. It gives a number of worthwhile sport routes, with a few trad routes thrown in for good measure on a series of arête, towers and corners. It is an ideal winter venue due to its south-facing nature.

Approach

From junction 28 of the M4, follow the A467 to where it veers off left into Sirhowy Country Park. Take the right here, not for Wattsville but for Cross Keys and follow this road until a roundabout laden with a large figure of a mountain Bike. Turn right here and take the first left towards Cwmcarn Follow this road taking the fourth right opposite to the Cwmcarn hotel. Park in this road just beyond Tribute Street. Walk up Tribute Street for 200 yards and take a path on the left into a rack which leads right past some garages. Follow this track steeply and direct into the quarry.

The routes

1. Endosperm (5)
A short slab off to the left.

2. Jiffy’s Twitter Spat (6a+)
The wall left of the crack.

2. The Luddite HVS 5b
The crack.

Archaeopteryx (6a) ★
The corner and overhung flaky bulge sharing the belay of the adjacent Terrordactyl

4. Terrordactyl (6a) ★★
The excellent arête starting via cracks on the left and via a short corner onto the arête.

5. The Phill (6b)
The face to the right gained off the ledge to the right.

6. Pigs in a Cage (5)
The next corner.

7. Tweaking Lats (5) ★
The arête with a deviation on the left.

8. Feeling Totally Hacked Off (5+)
The central corner.

9. Were there’s a Killer E3 5c
Serious climbing up the arête.

10. Clint Yeastwood S
The next corner 11. Face the Rap E2 5c
The next arête avoiding the pillar to its right, PR.

12. Take the Rap for Beating the Crap (6b)
The pillar arête and short finishing wall. Excellent.

13. Rap Crap E3 5c
The pillar and thin crack to the right.

14. Nick’s Line (6a+) ★
The groove on the right moving right onto the arête at 3/4 height. At half height is 6b+

15. The Yeast from the Undergrowth XS
The stump filled gully to the right.

16. Eyeful Tower (6b+) ★
The central tower.

17. Polyphemus (6b+) ★
The next tower to the right of some disturbing looking blocks.

18. Squeaking Bats E1 5b
The slim corner.

19. Red with Rage E3 5c
The wall to the right past some horizontal slots and a layback edge until jugs lead to a BB.

20. Crimson (6c) ★
The tower above the ledges marked by ‘Martin Prince’. Tough at the grade.

21. Auf Wiedersehen Mate (6b)
The twin cracks left of the corner.

Pus in My Boots (6a) ★
Starts up Yellow Tower and moves left onto the pleasant arête.

22. Yellow Tower (6b+)
The obvious tower marked with Yellow Paint and ‘MC’

23. Like it or Lump it (6b+) ★
The high square-cut groove.

24. Sour Grapes (5+)
The green arête. 6a if you start right of the bolts.

25. Cwmcarnage (6b) ★★
The green cracks are really, really good.

26. Project

27. The Terrace Gardener (6a+)
A tricky start from the left side of the terrace.

28. Bramble Pitt gets Hammered (6a+)
Has a small roof finale.

29. Corneal Abrasion (6b)
A tricky start before the first bolt - slip stick anyone?

30. Stumbling Block (6a+)
Takes on the challenge of the poised block!

31. Lisa Likes (6b)
The roof to the right.

32. Drop Knees (6b)★*
The square-cut chimney.