Ferndale Middle Quarry

This is the quarry on the right when the track on the hillside meets level ground. It provides a good mix of trad and sport route.

1. S.A.D. (5+)
Square-cut rib

2. Bottleneck VS 4c
Thin crack to belay and complete with plastic bottle

3. Another Jewell (6b+)
A tough sequence on a flying flake

4. Gem Them (6a)
The shallow groove system

5. A Little Garnett (6b) ★
The excellent little pillar

6. Opal Fruits (6b)
The edge and short wall

7. Our Jade (5)
Pleasant wall on the right

1. Project

2. Big Jim (6b+) ★★
Keep to the L of arête. Gain the top, then reach right to belay

3. Four Breakfast E2 5b ★★
Jam or layback the well protected crack to a tricky finish

4. C U Next Time E2 5c ★
Crack left of tombstone, tricky start leads to awkward jamming

5. Chalk’n Bowels E2 5c
The V chimney complete with dodgy peg

6. Bolts and Torque (6b+)
Blunt arête utilising the crack on the right

7. Nick’s Wet Crack HVS, 5a
Crack above the fallen block

8. Netsky - No Beginning (6c+) wall
R of crack with staples. Feels bold despite bolts.

9. Project

10. By The Numbers HVS 5a
Cracked blocks lead to a very thin crack and a tapered block

11. Bat Crack E1 5b ★
A jam crack leads to steep jugs and a final blind pull

12. Flake Quake E2 5c
Gain the steep flake from the right and climb it, peg, to a lower off on the left

13. Layback Jewell E2 5c
The steep layback. Belay on the right

15. Flake of Doom E2 5c
The name gives you a clue, make your own decisions

15. Jim Knee Sweep HVS 4c
The horrible looking chimney. Traverse L to a shared lower-off