Ferndale Right Hand

1. The Loony Left E3 6a

2. $perm Bank (6b)
The left centre of the pillar via a groove with a tricky finish taken right of left

3. Eurotrash (6a) ★★
The excellent front face of the pillar on jugs

4. Totally Auburn (6b) ★
The unusual right arête taken on its left side via a jug and sly heel-hook

5. Balancing Blondine (6a)
Centre of slab to tricky finale

6. Turf Accountancy (5)
Right-hand side of slab. Poor

7. Rhondda Born, Rhondda Bred (6b)
The centre of the face to the right of the large oak tree

8. Anteater’s arête (5+) ★
The long arête is good but has a tricky clip

1. Phogey’s Wall (7a) ★★
The steep left-hand side of the wall gives excellent technical face climbing. Take care with the low flake

2. Physical Presents (7b) ★
moves left out of the next route to a series of long moves to regain that route

3. By Appointment Only (6c+) ★★
The groove moving leftwards above the roof with poor footholds and then on large spaced jugs

4. Nine Green Bottles (6b+) ★★
A fine pitch with spaced holds and some extending final moves

5. Oral Challenge (6b+) *★ the vertical wall on layaways before a tricky rising traverse into the next route

6. Prick test (6b) ★
The blackened wall with a short corner above half height

7. Gojira (5+) ★
The open corner finishing via the sharp arête above

8. One Size Fits All (7a)
The centre of the wall on small incut holds

9. Hypnothighs (6a+)
A tricky sequence into a small corner finish via a corner above the grassy ledge

10. Project

11. La Digue (6c) ★
The wall left of the thin crack moving right and back left to finish

12. Sea Shells on the Seychelles E1 5b ★★
The superb thin crack. May need cleaning from adjacent routes

13. Gregoires Island Lodge (6a+)
The right-hand wall