Character
Although something of an esoteric gem, situated very close to Pontypridd Golf Club, this cliff offers a number of very worthwhile climbs which are beginning to become quite popular. The main wall gives steep climbing with a plethora of good holds, the routes generally being in the E3/4 bracket. In the wings a few easier pitches are available, suitable to those who wish to while away the hours in solitude. The wall takes a little bit of seepage, usually drying out by mid May, getting the afternoon and evening sun which can make it almost like a cauldron on a hot day, but a welcome autumn venue.
Approach
This can prove quite a difficult place to find, although close to Pontypridd Golf Course. Take the A470 north from the M4 (junction 32) and follow it to the fourth roundabout in 5 miles, signposted Glyntaff University. At this roundabout turn right, signposted crematorium and A4054 Clifynydd. Take the first right off this, then immediately left again. This road, Graig Yr Helfa Road, takes a sharp right past a church and then a 90 degree left just above. Continue on this road for 1 mile, past a narrowing, until it turns abruptly left and into Common Road. Continue straight on, Tongwyn Road, for 800 yards until a sharp right turn signposted Pontypridd Golf Course. Park here on the left where an old rocky track leads off left.
Follow the rocky track for 20 yards, then branch left and skirt the top left-hand side of the quarry into its base. The main wall is obvious
Access
Although ownership is unknown, there has so far been no difficulty in access to climbing here. There is however the back yard of a bungalow nearby and in the interest of the people living there it is requested that a certain decorum is obeyed in that noise and swearing should be kept to an absolute minimum. Please also keep to the marked way of approach.