Lewistown

This small quarry is situated overlooking the village of Lewistown in Ogwen Vale. It has a handful of average routes

Approach

Leave the M4 at J36 and follow the A4061 to Lewistown passing first through Bryncethin and finally Blackmill. A recently restored housing estate will be seen on the left and at the national speed limit road sign take a sharp left-hand turning. Continue steeply uphill, bear right at the first fork, then right again to a rough track. Follow the rough track for 200m and park on the left. Walk 100 m up a grassy bank to gain the quarry and do not leave valuables in the car!

Access

The landowner, Steve Blackwell, asks that you seek his permission to climb on the crag. His farm is 400m further up from the parking place. He will ask you to write a disclaimer that any accidents that happen are the climber’s own fault. Not doing so will jeopardize access in the future or you may also meet a very disgruntled landowner!

The routes..

1. Disclaimer (4+)
The groove and ledgy face above. More fun when ‘gopping’ as per the first ascent!

2. Chokin’ the Chicken (6a+)
The first line right of the clim groove.

3. Five Knuckle Shuffle (6a+)
A tricky start just right, then rightwards to the belay

4. Being Butch (6b+) ★
The centre of the face with a tricky start

5. Kleenex Man (6a+)
A tough start just right then easier above

6. Graffititi (5+)
The first crackline right of the arête

7. Misspent Youth (6a)
The second crack with a hard finish

8. Youthenasia (5+)
Short wall and hard finish

9. Hold up there Youth! (5+)
A hard finish again.