The walls to the right, whilst continuing to retain their height, provide in the main a number of excellent short pitches for a winter’s day. These are intermingled with the occasional longer route.
1. The Missing Quarter (6b+) ★
Climb the blunt rib just right of the wall containing Roaring Forties. Pleasant slab climbing all the way to the top of the crag.
2. Saboo (6c)
The shallow groove system is a little fragile.
3. Dandelion (6b)
Pleasant shallow grooves and the wall above. A little fragile in places and suffers from seepage.
4. Burdock (6b)
Climb the wall just left of the main angle of the bay.
5. Blinded by Love (6c+) ★★
Superb sustained climbing on the stepped arête.
6. The Laughing Policeman (6b+) ★
The crack and groove system starting via difficult rib. Suffers from seepage at the start of the route, hence climbing the rib on the right.
7. Fair Cop (6b+) ★
The crack, wall and flying arête. A long sustained pitch with a technical start to the wall and an ‘out there’ finish.
8. Aptitude Test (7a) ★
The desperately technical, blunt, low-level arête.
9. The Merthyr Infill (6c) ★
A short technical and worthwhile wall.
10. My Blue Bell (6b)★
Climb up a shallow groove with an awkward bulge.
11. All Sand Together (6c+)
This takes a blunt rib with short, steep section. Move right at 3rd BR into Red ’erring.
12. Red ’erring (6b+) ★
Climb up the steep pink wall and bulge to a bold and rounded finish.
13. Plaque Attack (6c) ★
Provides some technical climbing up the angled face.
14. Incidentally (6b+)
Climb the arête of wall moving left to the belay.
15. Cop the Lot (7a)
This takes the blunt rib on other side of a dirty groove. It has a hard finish.
16. The Caerphilly Cop Out (6c+) ★
Another blunt rib with a l-o-n-g reach and short difficult face.
17. I Am What I Am (6b) ★★
The left-hand of three longer routes this climbs a shallow groove and open face. Excellent sustained climbing with a crux finish. Well bolted.
18. You Are What You Is (6c) ★
The central line of open face with the hardest climbing at the start. Excellent.
19. Is it What You are That is? (6c+)★★
Takes the arête of wall. The crux is lowdown and middle section is sportingly bolted.
20. The Brush Down (7a) ★
The left-hand line of two routes has a hard starting wall.
21. The Brush Off (7a) ★
The right-hand line is slightly harder at the start and the finish.
My Little Rooty Wooty (6a+) ★
This pleasant face is a way over to right.