Left-Hand Walls

This fine wall, often gaining more sunshine than the rest of the quarry offers a series of worthwhile pitches in the lower end of the sport grades. The right-hand section of the wall can be slightly hollow but the abundance of in-situ gear renders this problem surmountable. A good place to learn ‘sport climbing’.

1. As it Was (5)
This climbs the short wall on left. Describes the pre-bolt ethic, hence the name and gear: hinges, scrap metal, this one has the lot including an impressive scaffolding pole.

2. Kabuto Mushi (6a+)
A short wall with 2PRs.

Duster (5+)
The crack right of Kabuto.

3. Yikes (6b+)
A short hard wall. Problematic and snatchy on small holds.

Muster (6a)
Climb up right of Yikes by a tree.

4. So Uncool (6c) ★★
The best route on the wall with a fingery start and sustained moves above. A spotter might be a good idea.

5. Just Hanging Around E1 5b ★
An excellent traditional crackline with BB on left.

6. Fluster (6a+) ★
This is the first line on the wall to the right of the crack. It’s slightly hollow but pleasant enough.

7. Bluster (6b) ★
Similar to Fluster, though less technical.

8. Marlin on the Wall (6a+) ★
Fingery and technical. The ‘marlin’ adds a new dimension to the word protection. Safer than a house.

9. Don’t Blame Me (6b)
Good climbing on edges though can remain damp.

10. Sumo no Shiro (6b+)
A popular route which climbs up the green streak. Sometimes a little dusty and therefore not as good as the rest.

There are two new routes right of Sumo. The first follows the corner line and is 6a. The second goes up via a blank wall and is 6a+.