Natural Crags

Left-Hand Buttress

A little down the hillside, towards the Lower Quarry, is a flat-faced buttress of around 9m in height. The two central routes offer well-protected climbing whilst the arêtes are a bolder proposition. Good rock throughout with the odd peg runner here and there.

1. First there is a Mountain E4 5c
Bold climbing up the rounded arête. A pocket on the left may provide the key.

2. Trouble at Mill E3 5c ★
The left-hand line on the front face is ‘controversial’. PR.

3. Luddite E3 6a ★
The right-hand line on the front face. Another controversial PR.

4. Then There is a Mountain E4 5c
Yet more boldness up the right-hand side of the wall to reach the arête towards the top.

Right-Hand Buttress

Working leftwards from the Upper Quarry a series of natural buttresses will be seen. The right-hand buttress offers some good climbing, though only the best routes are included here. Mostly natural protection though the odd peg runner is present.

1. New tricks E1 5c
The steep wall just right of crack, PR. Pleasant.

2. In Over My Head E3 6b ★
A direct line up to and through rock fang features small holds and technical climbing.

3. Mister Natural E1 5c
The obvious bulging crack.

4. Surprise, Surprise E1 5c
A natural crack with unnatural holds, PR.

5. Audio Pornography E3 5c ★
An excellent flat-faced wall with PR. Relatively bold but excellent.