The bay at the right-hand side of the quarry provides a liberal smattering of routes with four of particular merit.
1. One Track Mind (6c+) ★
A fine arête.
2. Greased Balls (6b+)
The left wall of the corner.
3. Rain and Tears E1 5b
The corner. Unpopular.
4. Full Bag E2 5b
The crack striking right from the corner.
5. Controlled Emission (6b+) ★★
The first line of BRs on the wall to the right has fine climbing and one of the classics. Sustained and a long reach helps.
6. Sperm Wail (7a+) ★★
A fingery and technical wall with hidden small edges.
7. Scrotum Oil (6c) ★★
Another well-bolted pitch that’s very popular. Again a long reach helps on the hidden holds.
8. Naked Truth HVS 5a
Another traditional crack climb.
Bareface Cheek (6a+)
The bolt line right of the previous route. May need a dusting before climbing.
9. Pick up the Pieces (6b)
Pleasant climbing up the final slim wall. Back to BRs for this one.
10. Retro But In E1 5b
The less obvious crack in the right wall.
11. Perfect Scoundrels (6c) ★★
An excellent roof and arête. It’s pumpy through roof and pleasantly technical above providing a good mixture.
12. Butt Out (5+)
13. Per Rectum (4+)
Climbs up via the small tower.
Stool Sample (5)
As it Is (5+)
The final short arête with modern gear.
Turd Strangler (6c+)
Di Horrea (6b)