Dark Side

A new section of crag around to the right and beyond the tidal access point. This can be gained at low tide roughly two hours either side of low tide either from Morfa Bychan or Pendine Sands. There is another excellent section of cliff in between with a number of good routes soon to be displayed here. Please respect any routes identified as projects as a lot of effort has gone into preparing these.

1. Straight as a Dai (6b) ★
Excellent rock and fine climbing on the compact wall.

2. Central Deviator (6b) ★
Another excellent route.

3. Project

4. Before Planck’s Time (7a+) ★★
Shallow seem/groove to the right. High in grade?

5. Project

6. Project

7. Seven Thirty at Arras (7b) ★★
Diagonal line starting via arête to finish direct on Badger’s Out.

8. Quantum of Lydon’s Future (7a+) ★★
undercut moves lead to an awkward crux and big holds though the overlaps.

9. Badger’s Out (7a+) ★★
Starts via the hanging chimney through the overlap to follow a faint weakness above.

10. Vera Figner’s Lost List (7a+) ★★
Starts up the chimney before undercutting the overlap left into the centre of the face.

11. Jackie Fisher’s Phobia (6c+) ★★★
A direct assault of the overhangs above the chimney.

Table Scraps (6a)
climbs off the blocks before moving back right to belay. New belay to be added up and to the left.

1. Give the Dog a Bone (5)
arête starting just right of block. Belay over to right.

2. Salty Dog (5+)
Shallow groove, slab and steep finale.

3. Bitch (6b)
Shallow groove and leaning wall on jugs.

4. Snuffle Hound (6b+) ★
Peculiar pitch via the obvious vee niche. Good climbing.

5. Unleashed (6a+)
A direct line via a Vee groove/niche.

6. 3D Dog (6a+)
Another worthwhile pitch via the right-hand scoop and left of the slim corner.

7. Soapy Dahl (6b) ★
The long slim corner line. Very unusual.

8. Man Machine (6c)
The right-hand groove with a bouldery crux.

9. Sophie’s Wit Tank (6b+) ★★
A superb little climb despite the name up the centre of the fine wall.

10. Project

11. Project

12. Project

13. Project

14. Project

15. Mary Hinge’s Close Shave (6b) ★
Fine climbing via a faint groove on a brown streak.

16. Nothing in it (6b) ★
Groove line left of the arête.

17. McGoohan Loses Six (6c+) ★
The hanging arête.

18. The Amount of Fun to be had by a Bear with a Broken Baculum (6a) ★
The wall right of the arête.