Gary Gibson on the first ascent of Settin’ Stone. Photo Hazel Gibson
An incredible find in the heart of the Gower: a superb 15m wall springing from sea level and extending southwards for 400m. When we found this we were stunned to find that it had hardly any routes, save for the odd morsel from Adrian Berry, and had massive potential for sport climbing and little else. Months later and after the painstaking effort of equipping and cleaning routes over the winter months, the lines began to fall.
What now remains is one of the best cliffs in South Wales with incredible lines, perfect access and even swimming facilities within 20 yards of the cliff face!
What’s the climbing like?
Steep, overhanging and sustained! There are a few corner and arête lines but the majority of the climbing on edges and pockets is very intense for its length. Easier routes are few and far between and have little to recommend them.
When should I go there?
The cliff takes quite a lot of seepage and doesn’t usually dry out until towards the middle or end of May, though in a long dry spell it can be earlier. The cliff only gets the sunshine until 11pm. and can have a few lines of seepage even into mid summer. The Sea Walls are great in hot weather but in humid weather the ‘crag in the woods’ can be midgy.
Grades
The sport grades start at 6a+ (1), 6b (3), 6b+ (1), 6c (2), 6c+ (2), 7a (14), 7a+ (6), 7b (6), 7b+ (3), 7c (4) and end at 7c+ (1). There are a few E1s and E2s of a traditional style. In total it makes 52 routes and ever on the increase.
Which are the best routes?
A difficult one: On the Sea walls go for Kissing the Pink (6c *★★★) a tufa/arête line: Glue Year (7a *★★) a groove and wall on the right: Red With Rage, Resin D’arête and Mars Attacks (all 7a+ *★★) at its left-hand side: Written in Red (7b *★★) just above the rock step: Bitchin’ (7b+ *★★★) in the centre of the wall and finally Set’in Stone (7b *★). On the crag in the woods: For Sportsmen of the Epoxy Clips (6c *★★) an awkward overhanging arête and wall: Big Cheese (7a *★★) and hard wall and prominent flake: Say Cheese Please (7b *★) a prominent arête: or Plum Duff (7b *★) a short, very sharp arête.