Crag in the Woods

Please note that the section of crag between Red Leicester and Tump Jumper has fallen down.

To the left of the descent is a small buttress with 5 routes. From left to right: Unnamed (F6c+) Desperate move past single BR, Open Verdict(F6b+) Start up tiny groove, Swift Justice (VS 4c) main groove, Before the Beak (F7a+) arête and the Jury’s Out (F7a) right-most line. There are also other projects in between.

1. Teasin’ the Zits (6b+)
First line on wall right of descent.

2. Pip-Squeak (6b)
Short pleasant wall, 2PRs.

3. Treadin’ the Grapes (6b+)
Another tricky wall, PR, BR.

4. Squeezin’ the Pips VS 4c
Short groove line.

5. Stoned Dates (7a) ★
Wall with tufas. Excellent and fingery.

6. Figura (7a+) ★
Right side of arête. Short and depressingly desperate.

7. Pickin’ Berries (7a) ★
Obvious corner-line left of arête. Technical thought short.

8. Project
Goes up an arête.

9. No Resin Why E1 5b
Crack with large TR low down. BB on right at top.

10. The Oxwich Bobby (7a)
Technical wall with rugosities to right. 4BRs.

11. The Oxwich Blobby (7b) ★
Smooth-looking wall left of corner. Intense on small holds.

12. Resin Hate E2 5c
Large angle of bay. Classic line to BB.

13. Resination (7a+)
Wall 10ft right of corner.

14. Project (Passion Fish)
Mega-overhanging flake. Awesome.

15. Project
Impressive overhanging arête.

16. Red Leicester (6b)
Prominent red groove. Difficult start. 4BRs.

17. Say Cheese Please (7b) ★★
Sharp-edged arête. Fine line, fingery at start.

18. Whey It Up (7c) ★
Sustained leaning scoop with hectic finale to clip BB.

19. Big Cheese (7a) ★★
Shallow groove and flake high up. Classic.

20. Project
Shallow groove and flake high up. Forgotten?

21. The Route of all Evil (8b+) ★
Hideous overlaps and wall right again.

22. For Sportsmen of the Epoxy Clips (6c) ★★
Short difficult arête and fine wall. Classic.

23. Epoxy Clips Now (7a) ★
Leftwards up shallow groove at back of angle. Blind finish.

24. Inferno (8b) ★★
Hideous-looking wall via thin crack and marginal finish.

25. Plum Duff (7b) ★
Sharp-edged arête with desperate start. 4BRs to BB.

26. Sans arête (7c+) ★
Very technical arête with overlap.

27. Ambrosia Mountain (7c) ★
Desperate ‘Nectar-like’ corner. Lower off last BR.

28. Extra-Ordinary Little Cough E1 5b ★
Prominent, large layback flake. Traditional to BB.

29. Sweet September (7a) ★
Technical wall with small flake high up.

30. Tump Jumper (7a)
Short intense wall of grassy mound. 3BRs to BB.