Character
Subterranean Sidewalk (6c+) on Red Wall.
Mussel Bound (7a) on Red Wall.
A massive quarry situated in the rain-shadow area of the Welsh borders, this cliff offers a wealth of long sport routes and an excellent selection of traditional routes. The sport routes are all under review for regearing and the trad. routes are excellent in their own right.
This is a perfect stopping off spot on or to North Wales, as a superb winter venue or as a retreat from the mountain crags when the weather closes in.
The Climbing
Red Wall
A steep wall with very long sport pitches. Stays dry through rain and gets any sunshine until about 3pm. A superb winter venue.
Black Wall
A black, off vertical wall with classic face climbing with trad. gear. Some fine technical climbing and Black Wall is not to be missed.
Grid Iron Wall
A massive wall currently being bolted up to give some very long sport pitches. Face climbing throughout. Can take a little seepage after rain.
Nomad Wall
A magnificent wall set high up above the quarry floor. Fine trad. Routes are said to be reminiscent of the famous Cromlech wall climb Lord of the Flies. Three major classics.
Bay Wall
A pleasant new wall tucked away in the back of the quarry with a good selection of low to mid grade sport routes.
Cul-de-Sac
This short, smooth, steep wall sports the quarry’s hardest routes with an 8a and several routes in the high 7s.
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