Nomad Wall

The superb slim wall set at a higher level gives a trio of the best routes in the quarry. All give fantastic wall climbing with a limited amount of fixed gear. Take a full trad rack including a couple of medium sized Friends and a broad selection of wires.

NO ROUTES TO BE RETROBOLTED

To reach the wall, climb the lower arête on its right-hand side before transferring onto a ledge below the main section of wall.

1. Rabble Rouser (6b+) ★
The right-hand side of the wall, using the arête in many places, gives a fine introduction to the wall. The main difficulties lie in the first 10m.

2. This Won’t Hurt (7a) ★★★
The easiest route of the three climbs the wall 5m left of the right-hand arête. Tricky moves low down but the route as a whole provides a fine sustained effort. Now bolted.

3. Unbroken (7a) ★★★
An impressive pitch tackling the centre of the smoothest section of the wall and saves its hardest section to the final 10m. Fingery and superb.

4. Nomad (7a+) ★★★
The magnificent central line of the wall gives a memorable pitch. Totally direct and absorbing with the crux in the final 8m. Now bolted

5. The Screaming Skull (7b) ★★★
The left-hand line of the wall now climbed with a direct start and bolted. One very short hard section with an ’energetic’ finale. Brilliant Now bolted

Nomad Lower

6. Dentine (5+)
Right-hand side of lower wall.

7. Pull ’em Out (6a)
Next route in.

8. Root Treatment (6c) ★
The central line with the best moves on the wall. Tough finale.

9. Another Filling (6b+)
The Left-hand line.

The large expanse of wall to the left of this sports one enormous sport route Southern Mountains 6a ★ The route is 50m in length with two lower-offs and requiring 17 quickdraws.