Horse Thief Wall

A good little wall tucked into the quarry on the left-hand side of the horseshoe bend when coming down the hill from Horseshoe Quarry. It has ease of access, dries very quickly and gets the sun until about 4pm

Approaches

Low Carbon options

The nearest railway station is Grindleford which is 6.6km away or 23 mins by bike from the crag.

Leave the station and turn right (south) on Station Road. After 500m join the B6521 (New Road). Cross over the Derwent river and carry on through Grindleford. Follow this road for about 2.5km past a parking area on the right. Take the next right, about 200m past the parking area, into Eyam. Follow the main road, The Dale (B6521) south out of Eyam to the A623. Turn R here and follow the main road to sharp RH bend. About 100m after this and on the RH side of the road is a vague path leading to the rocks. The main wall is around the the right.

The Eyam to Stoney Middleton bus service stops on the A623 where it meets The Dale. To reach the wall carry on up the A623 for about 800m to the sharp bend described above.

Check bus services and times for Stoney Middleton.

By car

After passing the turning for Horseshoe Quarry, when coming down the hill, a right-hand turn will be seen just before the horseshoe bend. Drive up this, best done when approaching from Horseshoe Quarry, and there a few parking places on the left. Walk down the lane, cross over the road and the crag is 100m down from the lane on the opposite side of the road.

1. Thief on a Hot Tin Roof (6a)
A tricky little lower wall then ledges.

2. Thiefdome (5)
short wall, flake and short wall.

3. My Thiefdome Come (6a+)
Tricky overlap requiring a long reach.

4. Honorary Thiefdome (4)
A pleasant pitch via the box-in recess.

5. Thief Groove (6a)
difficult moves into the hanging corner.

6. Brexit? Thiefdome! (6a+)
A short tricky start then easy.

7. Complete Thiefdome (5+)
The flake line exiting left.

8. Dome of the Thief (6b)
Starts in a short corner and climbs a tricky wall.

9. Under the Thiefdome (5)
Takes a long slim groove in an arête.

10. Thieves Amongst Us (5)
The right-hand branch on right side of arête.

1. Rustle Up (6a)
Steep straightforward crack to tricky wall above ledges

2. The Thief of Baghdad (6b+) ★
Good wall climbing with a tricky central section.

3. The Thief of Mad Dad (6b+) ★
Another good little pitch with a short tricky section past a right-facing corner.

4. The Rustler (6b) ★
A pleasant shallow groove system.

5. Thieving Magpies (6a) ★
The wall past and above the prominent overlap.

6. Rustler Brand (6b) ★
The pleasant vague blunt rib to the right.

7. Amazing Thief (6a+) ★
An unbalanced route with one hard move.

8. Stop Thief (6a)
Fringes the wall with a long move to and past the third BR.

9. Horse Nails (7a)
A short desperate wall, especially for those lacking inches.

10. Nailed (6b+)
A desperate mantelshelf to the right and a long reach start.