Park and approach as for Rubicon Wall. Walk past Rubicon Wall and continue upstream for several hundred metres until level with Moat Buttress on the other side of the water. Lammergeyer Buttress is up in the trees about 50 feet above the main path, clearly visible in winter but harder to spot when the leaves are on the trees. Two vague paths go up to the crag, one at either end.
This diminutive wall is no more than 10m high but none of the routes are easy. This is quintessence of the Peak limestone style: short, fingery, hard to read, invisible, low friction holds and powerful.
The crag was never popular as a trad climbing venue but has seen much more activity in recent years after routes have been rebolted or retrobolted.
The climbs are described from left to right:
1. Recycle or Die (6b+)
A short route even by Lammergeyer standards. A hard crux leads up to the top but there’s no belay so climb or jump down the last bolt and lower off. The crag’s easiest and probably worst route.
2. Aquarian Warriors (E5 6b)
Powerful Climbing in the scoop to the right with a nut, bolt and thread. 7b if the fixed gear is extended. Finish at a lower off above the shattered lip with care.
3. The Lammergeyer Twins (E5 6b)
The first route on the wall gives the buttress it’s name. First climbed in 1983 but now rarely if ever climbed. Waiting for some bolts.
4. As Summers Die (7a+)
After the easy slaby start tackle the crimpy wall via a perplexing sequence with a very high step. Pass the iron pipe in the break and finish directly to the joint belay of Lammergeyer Twins.
5. Easy’s Gettin’ Harder (7c)
From the good holds below the first bolt span out right to a side pull pinch and mount the slab with difficulty. Attack the blunt rib above.
6. One Way Reflection (7a+)
Hard and fingery all the way. Finish at the bolt and thread or scuttle out left to a higher belay on the previous route.
7. Pinch an Inch (7b+)
A short boulder problem start to the next route. Pre-clip the high first bolt.
Final Apocalypse (7a+)
A powerful start leads to only slightly easier climbing above. The most popular route on the wall.
Mr Puniverse (7a+)
A fierce start via a sloper leads to easier climbing above. There is a Single bolt belay below the fractured rock in the top overlap, finish here or clamber back down.
The Myth of Masculinity (7a+)
Climb Mr Puniverse but break out right up the bulging wall. Needs rebolting.
The Ego has Landed (7b+)
takes a steep line up the bulging wall via some hard to see rusty bolts. Another route in need of some love.
The Amnicolist Spies on the Black Submarine (E5 6b)
Start below and right of the large niche at half height. Climb the undercut flake line past a poor peg until it’s possible to move leftwards into the niche. Continue leftwards to reach the belay of The Ego has Landed.No belay on any of these routes just trees.
Hard Torque (8a+) ★★
Start below another line of undercuts leading up and slightly rightwards. Good bolts mark the line. Low in the grade.
Living with a Porcupine (7a?)
At the top of the crag is a prominent jutting roof with a double ring bolt belay. Climb up past two PRs to a new bolt and the lower off. Only half equipped and unclimbed. Boulder problem start.
Tree Surgeon (7b+)
The wall between the nest hole and the tottering pillar. Pull leftwards into the bulge via a fierce fingery start.
13.Once upon a Time (7b+)
Bolted to force you away from the tottering pillar. From a similar starting position as Tree Surgeon make a hard pull rightwards into the bulge. At the second bolt make a big lockoff into a right-handed undercut to join the previous route at its last bolt. Take care not to touch the loose pillar.
The Fall (8a) ★
Powerful and technical with awkward clips.
14. Vindicator (7c+) ★★
The most popular of the harder routes. A hard lock off from sloper leads to poweful undercut moves and sidepulls to an easier finish.
Sky Fall (7c+) ★★
Similar to Vindicator but with a steep tricky finish.