Approach & Access

Approach

An easy cliff to find! When approaching from Neath along the A465 ‘Heads of the valley’ road, after 10 miles, take a left turn into Glyn-Neath and pass through this to a set of traffic lights (this point is gained without going through the village when approaching from Merthyr Tydfil). Go straight through the lights, or turn right if coming from Merthyr, and take the first turning left in 200 yards, the Pontneathvaughan Road (B4242), signposted Pont Nedd Fechan. Follow this road until just before it begins to rise up a hillside and turn right by the Craig Dinas Hotel. This narrow road soon leads through the small village to turn abruptly right over a small bridge with a large car park in the obvious quarry to the left: an area used by outdoor groups and hence very dirty and noisy! For the climbs a small track leads off to the right alongside the river to reach the first area of rocks in 100 yards.

Access

It is worth noting that the gates on the car park are usually locked around 4pm and the warden is notoriously difficult to find. Parking careful in the local village may be a wiser option.

Layout

The crags are listed from left to right.

Terrace Cliff

An excellent piece of wall at a slightly higher level above the path: a 15ft scramble to the obvious cave. The routes here are similar to the Main Crag but generally easier in the grades and well packed in. The ideal day for mega ‘E Points’. Some good E3s and E4s.

Main Cliff

The most impressive piece of inland rock in South Wales. The walls, overlaps and grooves right of the huge cave give a series of hard routes second to none in the area. Grades are mainly from 7a+ to 8a but easier classics exist like Spain (E4) and Groovy Tube Day (E2). A must for any rock-starved sport climber.

Cave Crag

Three quality climbs above the left-hand subsidiary cave.

Bridge Cliff

A short wall at the tracks end and alongside the waterfall. Some desperate face climbs, all very fingery.

The Roadside Crag

Obvious by name. After 50 yards along the track leading to the Main Crag a series of small walls and buttresses are evident. These are liberally smattered with routes of all grades, although only the sport routes are described. There are many routes here ranging from 5+ to 7c. Good for an evening or short visit. Dries quickly after rain but takes seepage in winter.

Car Park Crag

Situated overlooking the parking area. As it is becoming dirty and has no sport routes it is not described here.