Encore Sector
aka Main Wall

The centrepiece of the quarry providing some of the best wall pitches on sandstone.

1. Loctite (7b) ★
Desperate fingery climbing on the edges low down. Coming in from the side is not allowed.

2. Land of the Dinosaurs (6b) ★
Climbs the crack. Harder than it looks and a notable cleaning achievement in its day. Can be extended by moving left from the belay and going up to the belay on Loctite at 6c.

3. Momentary Lapse of Reason (7b+) ★★
Superb, sustained climbing of the typically fingery nature sandstone lends itself to. Finish at the last BR, not the BB.

Enter Sandaman (7c+) ★★
An extension to the previous route past the roof to finish at an obvious jug. Better to jump back down than trust the old belay!

A Momentary Right-hand Treason (7b+)
An eliminate line between the Momentary Lapse and the next. Originally climbed above a pad with the first 2 bolts of the previous route pre-clipped.

4. Rattle Those Tusks (6b) ★★
An old trad route that’s become very popular since retrobolting giving some classic-style crack climbing.

5. Mad at the Sun (7c) ★★★
One of the hardest routes on sandstone, first climbed in 1990. Start up Leave it to Me, traverse left and up the face to finish over the roof. Fingery, sustained and technical.

6. Leave it to Me (6c) ★
The shallow groove and short headwall above start of Mad at the Sun.

7. Salmon Running, Bear Cunning (7a) ★★
Climb the right-hand side of arête and the slab above with a difficult finish on the headwall. There is also a Right-hand finish (7a) ★ and an extension John West (7b) that climbs past the BB to higher BB.

8. Anything You Can Do (7b) ★★
Excellent open wall climbing. A blind and fingery crux with an airy headwall above. The direct finish is I Can Do Better (7b) ★★.

9. Encore Magnifique (7b+) ★★★
The sandstone classic of its grade. Sustained more than technical and maybe only 7b. But you can keep it at 7b+ for now.

10. Pleasant Valley Sunday (7a+) ★★
A typical example of this wall: steep and fingery but with an unusual crossover crux. Now started direct.

You can climb PVS into Encore at worthwhile 7b.